A crisis for high-end Montreal restaurants?
A recent article in The Gazette covers the closing of two of the city's upscale gourmet restaurants and wonders whether the closings signal a decline in Montreal's restaurant industry. The closings, rather than signaling a trend, probably just reflect the inherent riskiness of the restaurant business. It's probably true that a city like Montreal can only support so many high-end restaurants (just like it can support only so many high-end escorts)...and in recent years Montreal probably experienced a surplus of both high-end restaurants and escorts.
Fine dining dead in the city? Foodies are chewing it over
Friday, February 02, 2007
For a special issue of Gourmet magazine in March 2006, editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl chose Montreal as the featured city. The cover enticed readers to learn more about the city's "great markets," "handmade cheeses" and "boutique hotels."
Featured most prominently on the masthead were the words "fabulous restaurants."
It seemed Montreal was at the top of the gastronomic heap. But now, three of our top 10 restaurants - Cube, Les Chevres and Anise - are closing in the space of two months.
It looks like 2007 might be dismal for the fine-dining scene.
The closing of the Hotel St. Paul's restaurant Cube hardly caused a murmur when it served its last glass of champagne on Dec. 31. Yet foodies were taken aback when Les Chevres shut its doors in mid-January.
Soon after, in a column in La Presse, wine writer Francois Chartier questioned the city's gastronomic credentials, blaming Montrealers for neglecting gourmet restaurants and asking foodies: "Where are you?"
Soon after, it became clear the cause of Les Chevres' closing was not customer indifference but debt.
You could chalk that up to the usual January restaurant casualties, but then an email was circulated Wednesday night by the owners of Anise, saying the posh Laurier Ave. restaurant would end operations March 3.
After a mere five years in business, Anise was closing shop. Les Chevres didn't even make four; Cube, less than three. Montreal's restaurant scene appeared to be crumbling at the foundations.
The latest closings are disturbing because the restaurants aimed high and burned out quickly. That raises the question: Has fine dining in our city seen its day?
"Pas du tout!" said Marc de Canck, the chef and owner of La Chronique, a four-star restaurant across Laurier Ave. from Anise. "We've never sold as many tasting menus. On weekends, I fill my 32 seats quickly, but I could still do 80 more."
He did acknowledge, though, that fine-dining restaurants have gotten a bad rap from diners who complain they are too expensive.
"I serve a three-course lunch table d'hote menu here for $25. You go to a bistro down the street, you'll pay more and it probably won't be better. Customers have to learn the difference. When they do, they come back."
Norman Laprise, chef and owner of Toque!, agrees.
"I've heard people say we're expensive without ever having eaten here or read the menu," he said. "Of course, bills can be high at Toque! because people come to our restaurant to celebrate. You can't compare a bistro with a restaurant like ours. It's apples and oranges."
Laprise said he didn't see the demise of these three restaurants as anything more than individual circumstances.
"We're so negative right now, about the city, politics and now the restaurant scene. What are they saying, that suddenly there will be no more chefs, no more producers, no more local ingredients? Never," he said.
"We're a nation of gourmands and we'll always be. Right now, I would say it's a question of the city's economy and how much we each have in our pockets."
For de Canck, success is not a matter of the ideal location or the time of year, but hard work, experience and having a head for numbers.
"Every day when we get to work, we re-evaluate," he said.
"We all know January is a rotten month, but we plan for it. In December, you hear chefs complaining they are too busy."
Laprise concurs, adding that steady business is not enough.
"These days, you have to be a good businessman to run a restaurant," he said, "because that's what it is - a business.
"I have an accountant here once a month. I pay my suppliers every week. I was driving a Honda Civic when I started Toque! 13 years ago and I'm driving a Honda Civic today."