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Any one is a high end watch connoisseurs on the board???

BookerL

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Tissot-Chemin-des-Tourelles-Squelette-04

Greetings all

https://www.google.ca/search?q=tiss...h&q=+Tissot-Chemin-des-Tourelles-Squelette-04
As a brand, Tissot really seems to be on quite a tear as of late. They have had quite a few notable new releases over the last few months, and now we are getting word of a sort of second wave. Most of them seem like reasonable additions to the lineup, but there is one in particular that caught our attention: the Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette.
As you can quite readily tell from the photos here, this is a skeleton watch (and that's what squelette translates to from French – skeleton). I've been spending more time looking at and thinking about skeleton watches in the last year or so, and I have come to the conclusion that they are particularly hard to do. There are some brands that have it absolutely nailed down on the higher end of the luxury spectrum; when you start coming down closer to the realm of the "affordable" watches, things become hit-and-miss.

Tissot-Chemin-des-Tourelles-Squelette-02
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLRt_qM_p2o

The single biggest problem that faces a skeleton watch is readability. Since there is no dial, a lot of attention is given to the movement, and what is shown. This can often take the form of skeletonized bridges and plates, allowing for more of the mechanical bits-n-bobs to be shown off. This often has a negative effect, as the display becomes so busy that it becomes hard to actually, you know, tell the time.

With the Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette, it looks like a sort of compromise has been arrived at. You can see portions of the balance wheel and mainspring, and a portion of the gear train that drives the handset is on display. Tissot has done something, though, that I've not noticed at this pricepoint - they've gone with fairly large bits of metal (call them bridges, plates, or what have you) that obscure some of the less-interesting parts of the movement (read: they do not move a lot), cutting down on some of the visual clutter.

Tissot-Chemin-Des-Tourelles-Squelette-gold

Against this, they have blued indices and a blued handset, which appears to be beveled. In the photos we have seen, this does look to provide the appropriate level of differentiation against the movement, allowing for you to read the time. Given the bevels on the handset, those should help catch the light, further assisting in the one job a watch actually has. On the rose gold model, the handset is in a dark grey, of which I am less certain of the ease of readability.

Flipping the watch over, you have a view of the rear of the movement, which is an ETA 6497-1 manually wound movement. Here again, Tissot resisted the temptation to show off every little piece of the movement. Instead, nicely finished plates cover most of the rear, while still allowing easy visual inspection of the parts that are the most kinetic, especially as you wind the movement up.

Tissot-Chemin-des-Tourelles-Squelette-04

Having seen first-hand how well done a high-end skeleton watch can be, I suppose I have become a bit spoiled in what I would look for. That said, I think the Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette sits in a sort of happy medium - not showing off nearly as much as those luxury watches, but keeping things so much more readable than what you would see in the bargain bin of your local shop.

Tissot-Chemin-des-Tourelles-Squelette-03

Frankly, I think they did a decent job here. As I mentioned, I think the grey handset on the rose gold model might be tricky, but the blued handset on the other models in the lineup seems to have the appropriate contrast. Coming in at a price of $2,050 and $2,200 for the rose gold, the Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette walks a fine line. And no, if you do not like skeleton watches to begin with, this one will not change your mind. If you are a fan of the style, though, you have to admit this is one of the better executed dial/movement combinations that we have seen as of late in the sub-five-figure segment. tissot.ch




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Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue

Hello all

https://www.google.ca/search?q=tudo...X&ved=0CCMQsARqFQoTCOyKipvf98YCFUx7PgodMHUBJQ

Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue Watch Review

Tudor-Heritage-Chrono-Blue-28 People here in the US are getting really excited about Tudor's return to the American watch market. The reason, at least for watch lovers, is that Tudor represents two very good things. First, is a tradition of making good looking, yet conservative watches a lot of people are happy to put on their wrist. Second, is that Tudor comes from a very well-respected and trusted house. Tudor watches are made right alongside Rolex watches. If you are among the last people to learn this fact, Rolex is a sister company of Tudor, each being technically owned by the Wilsdorf Foundation (named for Hans Wilsdorf who began Rolex). Tudor has been a laudable sub-brand of the world's most famous luxury watch maker for decades. Also, in cooperation with our friends at Watchonista, we'd like to point you over to their collection of Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue reviews here, which our aBlogtoWatch review being the very first.
Nevertheless, as we've mentioned before, Rolex kept Tudor out of the US for a long time. In fact, I am not even sure about the last time a Tudor watch was officially sold in the US. Why is Tudor making a comeback? I think part of it has to do with the positioning Tudor is making for itself not as a Rolex competitor, but as a more accessibly priced brand with clear distinctions from Rolex, but something that the same type of people would happy to wear. Today's Tudor watches are sporty, often focused on heritage, and pretty well-priced (all things considered).




One of the star watches for 2013 is the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue ref. 70330B. It would be amiss to call it a new watch because it is actually a different color variation of the more gray toned Tudor Heritage that was also recently released. Each of these modern timepieces is in fact directly inspired by vintage Tudor watches. Aside from the size and some minor details, the new versions of these watches are remarkably similar to the older versions. While the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue is a thoroughly modern watch in its materials and construction, there is a heavy helping of retro 1970s design. The original model this watch is based on is the Tudor "Montecarlo" ref. 7169.

We offered a detailed first look with a hands-on experience of the Heritage Chrono Blue during Baselworld 2013. In that prior post you can see what the watch looks like on the wrist with the provided blue and orange NATO-style strap. Yes, Tudor supplies both a steel metal bracelet and strap with each Heritage Chrono Blue. Tudor is a detail-oriented company (just like Rolex), and if there is anything positive to say about the Heritage Chrono Blue it is that Tudor really makes sure each angle of the watch looks and feels good. Detailing is meticulous and people familiar with watches will immediately notice the excellent use of materials.


One reason for that is that Rolex/Tudor produce so much of their parts in-house. When you make your own cases, dials, bracelets, etc... you can tightly control quality and produce the exact product you want. Whether you like Rolex and Tudor watches or not, one thing you have to admit is that their quality control and level of detail gives luxury watches a good name.

For the money, the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue's 42mm wide steel case is wonderfully finished. Everything feels solid, nothing wiggles, and the pieces fit together very well. The steel feels well machined (because it is), and you get a high level of confidence when wearing the watch. The case design is actually quite similar (though not at all the same) as the also 42mm wide Tudor Pelagos that we reviewed here. Both watches fit the same on the wrist - which is a good thing. For a 42mm wide watch, the Heritage Chrono Blue wears large - which I like - because of the wide-spaced and long lugs. It also looks a bit larger because of the thinner bezel.





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marc7

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Love Tudor !!! Rolex quality without the price ! Also a great diver chronograph watch for less than 6000$ can ! Can't find better bargain !
 

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Hublot Big Bang

Greetings all


https://www.google.ca/search?q=Hubl...j-b2-vnGAhXGlR4KHTqdB-o#imgrc=0wFKcyoftdYHuM:



Hublot was in a celebratory mood this year at Baselworld. The Swiss manufacture marked the 10th anniversary of one of the watch industry’s most iconic models, the Hublot Big Bang, as well as the release of some remarkable new timepieces for 2015.

In 2005, then-CEO Jean-Claude Biver unveiled what would become a new classic: the first Big Bang, known as the Hublot Big Bang Gold Ceramic. Mr. Biver, who is now president of Hublot and president of the watch division of LVMH – succeeded as Hublot CEO by Ricardo Guadalupe – marked the occasion by unveiling three new Big Bang pieces.

Each of the three anniversary models incorporates classic Big Bang elements. The new Big Bang Unico houses Hublot’s UNICO column wheel chronograph movement. The caliber’s double clutch is visible on the dial, as well as the date chapter ring. Produced in Hublot’s proprietary 18K scratch-resistant Full Magic Gold, it features a new one-click strap system that allows the Big Bang Unico’s strap to be changed quickly and easily. Only 250 pieces will be produced.

Hublot Big Bang Unico


The next anniversary watch is the Big Bang Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Indicator. Also in Full Magic Gold, this 50-piece limited edition was designed, developed, and produced in-house. The open-worked dial showcases the HUB6016 hand-wound skeleton movement, with a one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Functions include hours and minutes, as well as a power reserve indicator.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Indicator


Finally, the Big Bang “10 Years” Haute Joaillerie is a dazzling take on this classic design. Ten unique versions of this model will be produced, each priced at $1 million. These pieces are truly jaw dropping; for example, the full black version features 653 black baguette diamonds, the full white version features 653 white baguette diamonds, the blue version features 653 baguette diamonds and blue baguette sapphires, and the red version features 653 baguette diamonds and baguette rubies.

Hublot Big Bang "10 Years" Haute Joaillerie


https://www.google.ca/search?q=hubl...yjeH7-cYCFcW4Hgod88wD6Q#imgrc=ejxZSlUgPJxLyM:



https://www.google.ca/search?q=hubl...yjeH7-cYCFcW4Hgod88wD6Q#imgrc=YLddt1v3MdBWJM:https://www.google.ca/search?q=hublot+big+bang+haute+joaillerie&client=opera&biw=1242&bih=634&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CBwQsARqFQoTCPuyjeH7-cYCFcW4Hgod88wD6Q#imgrc=YLddt1v3MdBWJM%3A



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Escale Worldtime from The master of luggage Louis Vuitton

Greetings all

https://www.google.ca/search?q=loui...Wzsqn_MYCFUgeHgodYyII7Q#imgrc=15qVhCCiZeQGWM:
Inspired by the trunk corner pieces and customization, the Escale Worldtime is a watch that perpetuates Louis Vuitton's tradition of travel with elegance and sophistication. It introduices a new white gold case and features an exclusive in-house worldtime with no hand complication. The hand-painted city disc enhances the brightness and contrasts of the dial.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMeVAllLJFg


The perfect traveling companion



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Omega Planet Ocean Liquid Metal Titanium

Greetings all


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKw25-ZjvTg


http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watch-r...-seamaster-planet-ocean-liquidmetal-titanium/


In celebration of the New Year we will take a look at one of my favorite watches of recent years, the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal Titanium. Photos taken over the New Year’s holiday at Königsleiten ski village in Österreich (Austria) mark the occasion. Enjoy the review!





The Lineup https://www.google.ca/search?q=tITA...ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI4uuM0quNxwIVSxk-Ch3zbAD4

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal Titanium is offered in the “Big Size” case (45.5mm) in both a chronograph (Ref. 232.90.46.51.03.001) and non-chronograph (Ref. 232.90.46.21.03.001) format on a titanium bracelet. Each model is also offered on a blue rubber strap with folding clasp (chronograph Ref. 232.92.46.51.03.001 and non-chrono Ref. 232.92.46.21.03.001):



Upon its introduction in 2011 this watch (in its several variants) became the first Planet Ocean to be constructed in titanium and also the first to depart from the black and/or orange color scheme of the Planet Ocean series. It was also the first PO to receive the in-house Caliber 8500 (Caliber 9300 in the chrono) with the co-axial escapement and silicium balance spring. Also notable is the “Liquidmetal” bezel (a ceramic+zirconium alloy), a rarity for the Omega lineup in place of the standard aluminum bezel insert, and the new



Dial

The dials are standard fare for the current Planet Ocean series, save for the blue color.



I would only point out that the 3-9 bi-compax layout of the chronograph is itself new the series as of 2011.



lume…note also also the orange sword-style hand of the chrono sub-dial at 3 o’clock…





Bracelet

The titanium bracelet is of the look and quality enthusiasts have come to expect from the Planet Ocean series. Sturdy, screw-in pins for link adjustment and the superb Seamaster folding clasp. The blue rubber strap is an equally attractive option for a bit sportier and/or more casual look.



Caliber

Omega Caliber 8500 is an in-house Omega movement. Automatic (winding in both directions) with Co-Axial Escapement, free sprung-balance, 2 barrels mounted in series. Bridges and the oscillating mass are decorated with exclusive Geneva waves in arabesque.





Caliber 9300 is also Omega in-house; automatic (2 serially mounted barrels), chronograph movement with column wheel mechanism and Co-Axial escapement; silicon balance-spring on free sprung-balance. Rhodium plated finish with exclusive Geneva waves in arabesque.



Price

Perhaps the only uncomfortable aspect of this watch is its price: non-chronos retail starting at $7,900 for Ref. 232.92.46.21.03.001 (on rubber) and $8,600 for Ref. 232.90.46.21.03.001 (on bracelet); chronographs retail starting at $10,000 for Ref. 232.92.46.51.03.001 (on rubber) and $10,600 for Ref. 232.90.46.51.03.001 (on bracelet). This compares to a range of $6,100 to $8,200 for the current stainless steel models (also with Cal 8500/9300). Of course savvy shoppers who negotiate or go grey market can realize a price lower than this.

So overall on price a surprise to some, yes. But to be fair, I think that the higher price point is to be expected, even if it is not welcomed. By moving the price point up from base Planet Ocean models, the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Titanium Liquidmetal becomes even exclusive and thus special for those who are fortunate enough to own one.



Conclusion

In summary, I think it is safe to say that the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Titanium Liquidmetal represents one of the more compelling options in the Planet Ocean collection today, if you are amenable to the meaningfully higher price point. Likewise, with its titanium case and blue color-set, it represents a more individualistic and exclusive choice for those who still want to wear one most popular high-end sport/dive watch series on the market today.

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BookerL

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique in Canada

Greeting all


http://www.retail-insider.com/retail-insider/2015/3/jaeger-lecoultre
As discussed in January, Jaeger-LeCoultre will open at 1012 Alberni Street in Vancouver, replacing luxury legwear and knitwear brand Fogal of Switzerland, which vacated the small Alberni Street retail space in August of 2014. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the latest luxury brand to land on Vancouver's upscale Alberni Street, located at the heart of Vancouver's 'Luxury Zone'. Next to LeCoultre will be Canada's first location for premium Chinese jeweller Lao Feng Xiang, and the area will soon see new locations for Christian Dior, Prada, Strellson and other brands, joining already existing luxury retailers such as Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Hermes, De Beers, and others.


For the ones interested by this high end Brand exciting news .
Does boutique will carry exclusive time pieces




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BookerL

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Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On

Greetings all
http://www.ablogtowatch.com/zenith-academy-george-favre-jacot-watch-fusee-chain/

It seems that men named Favre are blessed with uncommon ambition and zeal. Although Green Bay's iconic quarterback is better known, Georges Favre-Jacot, the founder of Zenith, can boast the fuller trophy cabinet. Since its foundation in 1865, Zenith has won 2,333 chronometry prizes (which kind of puts that one Super Bowl in the shade). Aged just 22 when Zenith opened its doors, Favre-Jacot was known for his enterprising spirit and daring. This year, the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot will be released to celebrate 150 years since the Le Locle local announced himself to the world and cemented his place in horological history.
Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-7

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-12

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Zeni...X&ved=0CBwQsARqFQoTCOGWzojkmccCFUY1PgodumcI_Q

Zenith has produced something befitting its founder's genius, while staying true to the modern stylistic characteristics of the brand. The case silhouette of the Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot watch is identifiably from the Zenith Academy, and the 'guiding star' logo is featured on the dial and prominently on the crown. You could, however, be forgiven for skipping over the necessary nods to the brand's identity in favor of ogling the complication that sets this wristwatch apart from the crowd. A kidney-shaped cutaway, spanning from 9 to 3 o'clock, reveals a finely wrought fusée and chain system.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-9

A fusée is a cone-shaped pulley around which a chain attached to the barrel (containing the mainspring) is coiled. It is a device that we have seen used in some other previously debuted offerings, such as the Romain Gauthier Logical One, the Breguet Tradition Ref. 7047, or, sticking with Zenith, the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tourbillon. We have discussed this device in all those previous articles in great detail, but to keep it short, we will say the primary function of this centuries old invention is to counter the effects of the ailing torque of the mainspring as it winds down, hence improving isochronism over the course of the watch's power reserve – which, in the case of the Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot, is 50 hours.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-11

The fusée cone sits in between the barrel and the gear train. The chain is attached to the bottom level of the fusée (the widest part), and snakes around the cone wall, guided by a helical groove, extending from the top level of the cone (the thinnest part) to connect with the barrel. As the mainspring unwinds and the barrel turns, the chain unwraps itself from the fusée and is slowly wrapped around the barrel's outer wall. When the mainspring is fully wound and pulling on the chain with high torque, the fusée is being driven by its narrow end. As the power runs down and the chain wraps further around the barrel and so the weaker pull of the mainspring is compensated by the increased radius of the fusée, keeping the torque constant.

Particularly well executed is the chain itself – a perfect replication of the most traditional fusée design, finished to a mind-boggling standard. My favorite example of this attention to detail is the contrasting finish of the fusée barrel. There is a beautiful interplay between the high polish centre, made interesting by its concentric step pattern, and the grained outer circumference that bears the brand name and the star logo in black.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-3

While this barrel rotates beneath the wishbone-shaped bridge, which itself sports a straight grain, the effect cast by light hitting these three finishes is a sight to behold. The fusée looks even better in real life from an almost side-on angle, from which its true majesty can be appreciated. Its height and dominance of the dial is really noticeable when you can see the wall of the chain. Thankfully, Zenith had the good sense to make the cutaway large enough to best display their efforts.

In fact, the finish of all functional components is rightfully expected to be beautifully executed on a watch of this caliber – it is only when the more superficial aspects of the Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot are scrutinized that contention arises.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-14

When brands attempt to create a timepiece that honors the past – especially a past as personal as this watch attempts to extol – there is a fine balance that must be struck. The battle between old and new. There are those who believe brands must maintain congruity with their current range in order to satisfy their existing customers. Others insist it is more important a watch is congruous with itself. Another camp might argue that a mechanical watch is duty-bound to acknowledge the past and the present in the same breath. Broad as these principles may be, they provide a solid framework by which we can assess how successful or otherwise the Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot might be.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-18

There has been an obvious attempt to align the Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot watch with the current range with the case shape. The Academy watches have a pretty unadventurous silhouette, but it is modern enough without being crass in any way at all – although at 45 millimeters wide, it certainly is relatively large. The problem with the styling of this watch for me, lies in the half-hearted dial design and the seemingly non-existent relationship of the hands. The majority of fusée-driven wristwatches I have seen all fall neatly into the second critical category – their design is eminently consistent with itself.

For example, the Logical One is a mad, punky re-imagining of a classic design. It is bold and futuristic. It is a unique and immediately iconic piece. In contrast to this fashion-forward approach, the Breguet Tradition fusée Tourbillon is a pure embodiment of horological classicism. The craziest thing about the Breguet is its high-domed glass, which offers the wearer a more three-dimensional view of the refined gear work, sandwiched between frosted plates and chunky, George Daniels-esque cocks. Both designs work because they seem to thoroughly believe in themselves. For me, the Zenith Georges Favre-Jacot does not announce itself with quite as much gusto.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-17

The Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot may well satisfy those who want to see the brand's DNA or a mixture of old and new, but, frustratingly, there are several other watches in Zenith's own range, that do the job so much better! The most damning thing I can say about the dial is its finish. This watch was surely conceived to appeal to lovers of mechanics, of clever complications, of metal in motion. Why, then, did Zenith decide to cover up so much of what is a beautiful movement, with a dull, silver-toned dial?

Its legibility is unarguably superb, but there are plenty of ways to maintain functionality with style – just look at the Zenith Academy Christophe Columb Hurricane for an example of another in-house fusée watch that winds up looking ten times cooler because they went all in on the design instead of folding too soon. Even if the Hurricane is too meretricious for your tastes, it is hard to deny the Zenith Academy George Favre-Jacot would have benefited from a nice bit of traditional guilloché or rose-engine turning similar to the reserved dial of the Zenith Academy Christophe Columb Equation du Temps. Granted, these familial examples are way more expensive than the anniversary special, but given the price point, Zenith, as I see it, could have stretched to something a little more elaborate or refined.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-1

Sure, the plain dial helps highlight the fusée mechanism and allow it to visually dominate the design of the watch – and for some, that contrast may actually be a welcome feat. A design choice I find more difficult to wrap my head around, however, is in the inconsistency of the styles of the hands. The key issue is that the hands for the hours and minutes and those fitted on the sub-dials seem to originate from two separate watches – it is a bit of a clash of modern and traditional styling. The blue is a good choice, but the large hands appear to be very flat and, more important, sit very awkwardly next to one of the most exquisitely crafted complications in high-end watchmaking.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-5

Some will appreciate the traditional curves of the small hands while others will prefer the modern, large, and angular design of the main hands – which seem to work better with the baton indices anyway – but the inconsistency is more difficult to swallow. Speaking of inconsistency, seeing the mixture of English and French terms (i.e. "Force Constante", "High Frequency" and "Bas Haut") within an inch from one another further emphasizes the two-faced nature of the dial – a weird and illogical choice. But just as I doubted this watch, my opinion became effusively positive when I saw the case back.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-6

I am huge proponent of a well-executed three-quarter bridge. It takes a great deal of restraint to get this right and Zenith have passed the test with flying colors. With just enough to entertain the eye, without relying on gimmicks or flashy finishing, this full view of the movement reveals its humility and begs to be taken seriously as a horological exercise rather than a bombastic market-driven statement. This watch means business. It is a watch made by watchmakers to honour one of the greats, designed for a discerning and intelligent audience.

Zenith-Academy-George-Favre-Jacot-150th-Anniversary-Fusee-Chain-15

With only 150 pieces available, the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot is sure to sell out quickly. At a hefty 45mm across, with a height of 14.35mm on the wrist, it is large enough to catch a curious eye. The cambered sapphire is treated with anti-glare on both sides, so the fusée can be enjoyed with clarity. Although certain elements of the design may split opinion, there is enough to get excited about in terms of quality and uncommonness to warrant a price of $82,700. zenith-watches.com


https://www.google.ca/search?q=Zeni...X&ved=0CBwQsARqFQoTCOGWzojkmccCFUY1PgodumcI_Q






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Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time Retrograde

Greetings all

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Harr...tmN_Mm8cCFQPWHgodrecK4w#imgrc=DTZU5FSHTz1DaM:

This watch might not be too everybody’s taste, no doubt about it. However, we have to recognize real strong and bold design, unique on its own – something even more surprising from a large brand, owned by the largest group of the Swiss watchmaking industry, Swatch. Already an impressive watch in its classical edition, Harry Winston transforms the Ocean into an even bolder creation with a unique piece exhibiting the brand’s signature colour and a newly design dial. Here is the Unique Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time Retrograde for Only Watch 2015.

Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time Retrograde Unique Only Watch 2015 - 4

The Ocean is Harry Winston’s vision of a sports watch – a massive, bulky and sporty luxury timepiece that can easily compete in the race for very masculine watches. The 44.2mm case (here made of 18k white gold) shows one of the typical features of the brand, meaning 3 protrusions next to the crown. This radical timepiece is usually coming in monochromatic schemes (see the previous edition here) but for Only Watch 2015, Harry Winston features its signature colour on all parts, a bright and vivid blue – both for the strap and some parts of the dial.

Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time Retrograde Unique Only Watch 2015 - 3

Alongside this anodized blue finish applied on parts of the dial, Harry Winston also changes the face itself of the Ocean Dual Time retrograde, as the Only Watch 2015 edition is fitted with a partially skeletonized hour and minute dial, made in sapphire crystal, that allows an in-depth view into the movement. The inspiration for the dial is the Shuriken four-point star. This sub-dial indicates the home time. The local time is displayed by a large 3D retrograde hour that runs on the left side. The Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time Retrograde also features a day/night indicator, located beneath the excentered home-time sub-dial – depending on the time of the day, it will show a sun (for daytime) or a moon (for nighttime). It also features a date at 5.



This highly complicated display is driven by a lovely finished movement with a 18k white gold skeletonized rotor. This self-winding calibre features a silicon balance spring, comprises 281 parts and 32 jewels and boasts a 45-hour power reserve. The caseback is engraved “Only Watch 2015 Unique Piece” to highlight its rarity.

This unique Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time Retrograde (and 42 other unique watches) will be auctioned on 7 November 2015 in Geneva by Phillips Watches to help raise funds towards research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Harry+Winston+ocean+dual+time+bi+retrograde&client=opera&biw=1242&bih=634&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CBwQsARqFQoTCNatmN_Mm8cCFQPWHgodrecK4w#imgrc=DTZU5FSHTz1DaM%3A


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Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar

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https://www.google.ca/search?q=Omeg...2TMAD-&biw=1242&bih=634#imgrc=nP9Wo57Uv5zqFM:
The calendar is the most popular watch complication by far, that’s why we decided to review a number of watches with various types of calendars. One of them was the Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar, which needs resetting just once per year. For our analysis and results, along with original photos by Nik Schölzel, click here.
On most calendar watches, the date display advances to “31” regardless of how many days are in the month. This means that at the ends of months having fewer than 31 days (five times a year), you must advance the date display manually to have the “1” displayed on the right day. An annual calendar reduces the number of annual adjustments to one. It advances correctly for every month having 30 or 31 days; the only month it can’t master is February, which, of course, has either 28 or 29 days. The annual calendar gets its name from its ability to run for an entire year without correction.
The Omega Hour Vision Annual Calendar has a very simple calendar display, consisting only of an oblong window. This contributes to the watch’s sporty-elegant character. The Omega is the only calendar watch of those we reviewed that does not have any subdials. Omega wanted to limit the number of displays on the dial, so it decided that in addition to the date it would show only the month, which you need to see in order to set the calendar.
Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar
Happily, the date and month advance instantly and simultaneously. Our test piece accomplished this feat at two minutes past midnight, much quicker than all the other watches. Plus, the date and month can be quickly adjusted in the first extended crown position: you turn the crown clockwise to change the date and counterclockwise to change the month. It is very easy to set, given that annual calendars are more complicated than standard calendars. The crown-setting system also means the watch has no need for the obtrusive corrector pushers found on some other calendar watches. This is a plus for aesthetic reasons and also because it makes for greater water-resistance: 100 meters, the highest level of any of the watches we reviewed. However, the crown moves stiffly during manual winding. The watch has a hack mechanism that permits precise setting of the time. The highlight of the Hour Vision is its case, which is designed so that the movement can be viewed through sapphire windows in the caseback and sides. Granted, there is relatively little to see from a movement’s sides, but the windows are impressive nonetheless. (Another benefit of not having correction pushers is that they would have obstructed the lateral view.)
The watch’s movement, the COSC-certified 8601, a double-barreled automatic, is derived from Caliber 8500, Omega’s first in-house base movement. It is fitted with an improved version of Omega’s proprietary Co-Axial escapement. Unlike the 8500, the 8601 has an innovative silicon hairspring designed to increase precision. Fine regulation is accomplished by means of four screws on the balance. The balance is supported by a bridge that helps protect it from shocks and enables more precise adjustment of the endshake, which improves the rate performance. The movement’s decoration suits its modern design: black screws, black barrels, a black balance and red highlighted engraving. Some edges of the bridges, screws and chatons are beveled. The sturdy and easy-to-use folding clasp matches the high quality of the finishing, with great attention given to its details. The clasp holds and guides the strap so that very little metal touches the skin. The watch hugs the wrist; its wearing comfort is exceptional. The price for this model, $9,550 [as of 2010], is lower than you might expect.
Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar - back
SPECS
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; annual calendar with date and month
Movement: Omega Caliber 8601, automatic; 25,200 vph; fine regulating system with free-sprung balance; power reserve = 55 hours
Case: Stainless steel, nonreflective sapphire crystal, sapphire windows on caseback and sides, water-resistant to 100 meters
Price: $8,709


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The Rise of Counterfeit Luxury Watches on the Internet Part 1

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Like in any lucrative market the high end watch market is targeted by counterfeiters

Looking for cheap watches on the internet? Better think twice before making that purchase. In this in-depth expert advice article we explore how sales of these counterfeit watches are hurting both collectors and the watch industry.
For some watch collectors, the temptation is just too much. “I have seen quite respectable watch collectors with nice collections who couldn’t get their hands on that one limited-edition piece that they wanted,” says Beatrice de Quervain, a veteran U.S. watch executive and most recently head of Hublot North America. “They always buy from their authorized dealer, but then, just for that one piece, they broke down and went to an unauthorized source on the Internet. And sure enough, they got burned. They paid $20,000, $25,000.” What they got, de Quervain says, was a counterfeit.
Counterfeit Rolex
A counterfeit Rolex watch seized by German customs officials in 2012
De Quervain’s comments came at a recent meeting of the American Watch Association to discuss the problem of counterfeit watches. AWA invited WatchTime to sit in on the meeting.
The message from the assembled watch company executives and their legal counsels is that, more than ever, watch collectors must be aware – and beware – of the dangers of buying brand-name luxury watches through unauthorized dealers, particularly retail watch sites on the Internet.
That’s because of a recent spike in production of so-called “superfakes,” counterfeit reproductions of popular name-brand models, made primarily in China, that bear a remarkable resemblance to the real thing. “Twenty years ago the fakes were really fake,” says Michael Benavente, managing director of Gucci Watches & Jewelry North America. “You looked at it really quick and you could see it was trash.”
Confiscated Counterfeit Watches
Fake watches confiscated by Switzerland’s customs authority in 2008
Not anymore. These days, watch executives swap stories about counterfeit watches that are such spitting images of the real McCoys that the brands themselves have trouble spotting them. It’s not just the imitation of what the industry calls “the appearance parts” (case, dial, bracelet, etc.); it’s also the quality of the mechanical movements inside. Michel Arnoux, head of the anti-counterfeiting unit of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), cites a counterfeit Hublot Big Bang tourbillon watch seized by Swiss customs officials. Everything about the watch seemed like a real Hublot, down to the vanilla-scented rubber strap. Only on closer inspection did he find tell-tale signs of a fake: a piece of plastic in the case where carbon should be, a crystal that should have been nonreflective, but wasn’t. But what was most striking was the movement. “That was one of the first times I’ve held in my hand a fake tourbillon watch, a real high-precision mechanism,” Arnoux told Swiss Broadcasting Corp.’s swissinfo.ch news agency. “The counterfeiters have now mastered ultra-complex movements.”
Almost every luxury Swiss watch brand is dealing with the superfake phenomenon, says AWA’s chairman, Jon Omer, former head of DeWitt America LLC. “We are now faced with a new onslaught, which is getting bigger. We’re talking about pieces being sold in excess of $50,000 and $100,000 that are counterfeit watches. Everyone has to contend with it.” Including watch collectors, Omer says. AWA claims that the only protection a consumer has is to buy from an authorized dealer. (Counterfeit watches should not be confused with so-called “gray-market” watches. Unlike counterfeits, gray-market watches are produced by a brand, but sold outside the brand’s authorized retail network. As with counterfeits, AWA opposes the importation and sale of gray-market goods in the United States.)
AWA and its 30-plus member watch companies have been contending with counterfeiters for decades. The watch companies act independently to protect their trademarks and branded products. Some of them spend fortunes annually in a multi-front battle, working with U.S. Customs and federal, state, and local law-enforcement agencies, and even their own private investigators, to fight criminals who steal their intellectual property (IP).
Counterfeit Patek Philippe watch
A counterfeit Patek Philippe watch seized by U.S. Customs
Washington-based AWA works on the legislative and regulatory front. AWA is not a traditional trade association that offers a wide array of member services. Its mission is very specific: to be the voice of its members in Washington, ensuring that the watch industry has input into legislation affecting it on a host of issues ranging from tariffs to regulations on alligator and reptile watch bands to mercury levels in button-cell watch batteries. The association’s legal counsel is the prominent Washington, D.C., law firm Covington & Burling.
In the counterfeit fight, AWA has played an important role. “The association was the prime catalyst in moving the 1984 Trademark Anti-counterfeiting Act through the U.S. House of Representatives and on to final enactment,” says Executive Director Emilio “Toby” Collado. That act made counterfeiting a felony for the first time. A decade later, AWA led the way in drafting and lobbying for stronger weapons against counterfeiters. “We organized the multi-industry coalition that won enactment of the 1996 act which toughened penalties and gave trademark owners stronger search and seizure rights.”
These days AWA is working to pass the so-called “Rogue Websites Bill” (the Protect IP Act of 2011) which would help to shut down Internet sites that sell counterfeit watches. That battle is ongoing, Collado says, in the face of stiff opposition from the Internet industry. “In addition, we are working with others to increase punishments for repeat intellectual property offenders and for IP crimes involving gangs and organized criminal enterprises.”





http://www.watchtime.com/blog/buyer...5ca0658cb2ce61f&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=0&at_tot=6


Beware of good deals on the internet or unauthorized dealers


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Part 2

Normally the watch industry stays mum about its anti-counterfeiting efforts. “We work without fanfare or klieg lights,” Collado says. Indeed, the issue of counterfeits is so sensitive that a number of executives at the AWA roundtable spoke to WatchTime only on condition of anonymity. “In our business,” says Omer, “we fight counterfeiters below the radar. But this explosion of superfakes is going to have a more and more negative impact, not only on the brands, but on the consumer.”
Counterfeit Rolex Daytona
Authentic Rolex Daytona
That has prompted AWA to sound the alarm. It recently posted on its website (americanwatchassociation.com) a document it calls “The 10 Evils of Counterfeit Watches” in an effort to raise consumer awareness about what Collado calls the “scourge” of counterfeiting.
The document summarizes the main points made by the watch executives and lawyers at the AWA roundtable about why consumers should shun counterfeit watches.
AWA is aware that in the American marketplace, “counterfeit” is not necessarily a dirty word. Some people proudly buy and wear them. David Perlman, counsel for Citizen Watch Co. of America, cites the example of Hermès handbags. “They cost thousands of dollars,” he says, “but we all know people who have counterfeit Hermès bags that you can get for a couple hundred dollars. They are looking to get something they know isn’t ‘real’ for fashion or whatever reason. That’s the environment we’re operating in. It’s a cultural thing.”
“There’s a concept in the consumer’s mind that this is a victimless crime,” says Brian Brokate, an attorney who works closely with Rolex North America. “They think ‘Who am I hurting? Some big luxury group? Some big Swiss watch company? Who cares?’”
AWA members argue that there are victims all along the counterfeit watch production and distribution pipeline.
Watch counterfeiting is a huge industry. Switzerland’s FH estimates that 40 million counterfeit watches are produced annually, 25 percent more than Switzerland’s entire annual output. Counterfeit watch sales amounted to around 1 billion Swiss francs in 2011 ($1.08 billion), according to the FH. Law enforcement officials say that the counterfeiting industry is dominated by organized crime and uses child labor. China, by all accounts, is the capital of counterfeit watchmaking; its epicenter, according to the FH, is Guangdong province. The FH’s Arnoux told swissinfo.ch that one reason for the recent growth in counterfeit watches was that “Chinese triads were looking for new outlets to invest the colossal sums they garnered from online sports betting.” Law enforcement officials also claim that counterfeiting has links to international terrorism as well. Moreover, the notion that there is no harm in buying a $50 counterfeit Rolex because that customer would not have bought a real Rolex is a fallacy, the AWA says. There are plenty of negative impacts from such a sale and they add up.
The losers in that transaction are the producer of a legitimate $50 watch and the U.S. retailer and sales clerk who make one less sale. Instead, there’s a good chance the sale went to an Internet retailer based outside the United States, who does not employ Americans or pay U.S taxes.
Fake Rolex Datejust - German writing
This Rolex Datejust appears authentic, but look closely at the text on the dial.
Another victim: consumer protection. Legitimate watch companies abide by American consumer protection laws, such as the percentage of lead in a watchcase or the ban by some states on mercury in watch batteries. Producers of counterfeits pay no attention to such regulations; their watches can contain toxic materials like lead, cadmium and mercury.
Trademark owners are huge losers. “As brands, we spend our money building brand equities,” says Omer, “through establishing the right retailer partnerships, by spending millions marketing the brand in the correct way. None of these counterfeiters are doing this. They’re parasites just feeding off it.”
Says Patek Philippe USA Chairman Hank Edelman, “Counterfeiting undermines the concept of trademarks. What is the value of a trademark? The whole concept of trademark law is to protect something that has been built over generations. That is being shot down by counterfeiters.” Part of AWA’s message to people who knowingly buy counterfeit goods is that counterfeiting is a crime; buying counterfeit goods supports criminal activity.
Finally, there are the many unsuspecting victims who mistakenly believe the name-brand watch they bought is the real deal. “We have clients coming to the customer service desk in our boutique just to size the watch,” says Thierry Prissert, CEO of Breitling North America. “And we have to tell them, to their surprise, that the watch is counterfeit.” Prissert advocates a strong consumer education program about counterfeit watches. “We won’t fix the problem of the gangs making those watches, but at least maybe we can protect our consumers by telling them that in the watch business, buying on the Internet exposes you to tremendous risk because you expose yourself to a fake watch.”
Meanwhile, the watch company wars against those who steal their intellectual property go on. The counterfeiters are formidable foes. Their ability to duplicate watches continually improves. And not just a brand’s watches; they also create counterfeit boxes, warranties, even its website (so-called “mirror sites”). One brand developed hologram stickers to help distinguish its watches from fakes. The counterfeiters duplicated those, too. Says Citizen’s Perlman, “It’s a never-ending battle for a lot of reasons and you can spend an awful lot of money on it. You can never eradicate the problem entirely, but it’s still worth it. We owe it to our companies, our retailers and our consumers to do as much as we can.”
Normally the watch industry stays mum about its anti-counterfeiting efforts. “We work without fanfare or klieg lights,” Collado says. Indeed, the issue of counterfeits is so sensitive that a number of executives at the AWA roundtable spoke to WatchTime only on condition of anonymity. “In our business,” says Omer, “we fight counterfeiters below the radar. But this explosion of superfakes is going to have a more and more negative impact, not only on the brands, but on the consumer.”
Counterfeit Rolex Daytona
Authentic Rolex Daytona
That has prompted AWA to sound the alarm. It recently posted on its website (americanwatchassociation.com) a document it calls “The 10 Evils of Counterfeit Watches” in an effort to raise consumer awareness about what Collado calls the “scourge” of counterfeiting.
The document summarizes the main points made by the watch executives and lawyers at the AWA roundtable about why consumers should shun counterfeit watches.
AWA is aware that in the American marketplace, “counterfeit” is not necessarily a dirty word. Some people proudly buy and wear them. David Perlman, counsel for Citizen Watch Co. of America, cites the example of Hermès handbags. “They cost thousands of dollars,” he says, “but we all know people who have counterfeit Hermès bags that you can get for a couple hundred dollars. They are looking to get something they know isn’t ‘real’ for fashion or whatever reason. That’s the environment we’re operating in. It’s a cultural thing.”
“There’s a concept in the consumer’s mind that this is a victimless crime,” says Brian Brokate, an attorney who works closely with Rolex North America. “They think ‘Who am I hurting? Some big luxury group? Some big Swiss watch company? Who cares?’”
AWA members argue that there are victims all along the counterfeit watch production and distribution pipeline.
Watch counterfeiting is a huge industry. Switzerland’s FH estimates that 40 million counterfeit watches are produced annually, 25 percent more than Switzerland’s entire annual output. Counterfeit watch sales amounted to around 1 billion Swiss francs in 2011 ($1.08 billion), according to the FH. Law enforcement officials say that the counterfeiting industry is dominated by organized crime and uses child labor. China, by all accounts, is the capital of counterfeit watchmaking; its epicenter, according to the FH, is Guangdong province. The FH’s Arnoux told swissinfo.ch that one reason for the recent growth in counterfeit watches was that “Chinese triads were looking for new outlets to invest the colossal sums they garnered from online sports betting.” Law enforcement officials also claim that counterfeiting has links to international terrorism as well. Moreover, the notion that there is no harm in buying a $50 counterfeit Rolex because that customer would not have bought a real Rolex is a fallacy, the AWA says. There are plenty of negative impacts from such a sale and they add up.
The losers in that transaction are the producer of a legitimate $50 watch and the U.S. retailer and sales clerk who make one less sale. Instead, there’s a good chance the sale went to an Internet retailer based outside the United States, who does not employ Americans or pay U.S taxes.
Fake Rolex Datejust - German writing
This Rolex Datejust appears authentic, but look closely at the text on the dial.
Another victim: consumer protection. Legitimate watch companies abide by American consumer protection laws, such as the percentage of lead in a watchcase or the ban by some states on mercury in watch batteries. Producers of counterfeits pay no attention to such regulations; their watches can contain toxic materials like lead, cadmium and mercury.
Trademark owners are huge losers. “As brands, we spend our money building brand equities,” says Omer, “through establishing the right retailer partnerships, by spending millions marketing the brand in the correct way. None of these counterfeiters are doing this. They’re parasites just feeding off it.”
Says Patek Philippe USA Chairman Hank Edelman, “Counterfeiting undermines the concept of trademarks. What is the value of a trademark? The whole concept of trademark law is to protect something that has been built over generations. That is being shot down by counterfeiters.” Part of AWA’s message to people who knowingly buy counterfeit goods is that counterfeiting is a crime; buying counterfeit goods supports criminal activity.
Finally, there are the many unsuspecting victims who mistakenly believe the name-brand watch they bought is the real deal. “We have clients coming to the customer service desk in our boutique just to size the watch,” says Thierry Prissert, CEO of Breitling North America. “And we have to tell them, to their surprise, that the watch is counterfeit.” Prissert advocates a strong consumer education program about counterfeit watches. “We won’t fix the problem of the gangs making those watches, but at least maybe we can protect our consumers by telling them that in the watch business, buying on the Internet exposes you to tremendous risk because you expose yourself to a fake watch.”
Meanwhile, the watch company wars against those who steal their intellectual property go on. The counterfeiters are formidable foes. Their ability to duplicate watches continually improves. And not just a brand’s watches; they also create counterfeit boxes, warranties, even its website (so-called “mirror sites”). One brand developed hologram stickers to help distinguish its watches from fakes. The counterfeiters duplicated those, too. Says Citizen’s Perlman, “It’s a never-ending battle for a lot of reasons and you can spend an awful lot of money on it. You can never eradicate the problem entirely, but it’s still worth it. We owe it to our companies, our retailers and our consumers to do as much as we can.”





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Central Tourbillon Omega The Ville

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https://www.google.ca/search?q=A+ne...ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMIifSyqPCoxwIVxZANCh1H5wvc
This version of Omega’s classic Central Tourbillon watch has a coaxial calibre, and a bezel set with 24 baguette diamonds. The piece is unusual, amidst the tourbillon watches by different brands, for the position of the tourbillon itself. At the centre of the watch, the seconds hand is set into the titanium tourbillon cage which revolves once a minute. The hour and minute hands seem to float above the movement: they are in red gold etched onto sapphire crystal. Bridges and plates are finished in chocolate brown PVD, with a sun-brushed texture, providing a chromatic contrast with the screws and wheels in red gold. The watch has a platinum oscillating weight.

The red gold case is 38.7 mm in diameter, so relatively small as a men’s watch but ideal for the wrists and tastes of customers from the Asian market, where presumably they will be going. The De Ville Central Tourbillon will be a limited edition of just eight pieces, available only in Omega boutiques, numbered on the caseband, with the watchmaker’s initials engraved on the back of the tourbillon mainplate. Brown leather strap with foldover clasp

The watch, reference 513.58.39.21.64.001, is powered by the co-axial Calibre 2635, an automatic movement providing 45 hours power reserve. It has COSC chronometer certification. The presentation box is also a leather watch winder. Price is somewhere in the order of €200,000.



http://raredelights.com/omega-de-ville-tourbillon-co-axial-limited-edition-watch/





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The Omega Seamaster 300 "Spectre" is a limited edition model of the Omega 300 Master

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http://www.businessinsider.com/omega-finally-offers-007-watch-to-consumers-for-6450-2015-8
James Bond has worn an Omega Seamaster watch since 1995's "Goldeneye," but never before have one of the watches been available for purchase — until now.

The Omega Seamaster 300 "Spectre" will go on sale this September as a limited edition ahead of the film's October release.

Unlike commemorative timepieces released for earlier James Bond flicks, this watch is identical to the one on Daniel Craig's wrist in the film.

Based on the 1950s Seamaster (a definite classic in its own right), the watch stands out with its newly added "lollipop" second hand.

The new Seamaster also has a 12-hour diving ceramic bezel that rotates in both directions, a strong homage to the watch's naval history. It's powered by an Omega Master Co-Axial caliber 8400 movement and encased with Omega's zirconium-based alloy, which it calls "LiquidMetal." On the back of the case is the "Spectre" logo and the watch's individual serial number.

A gray and black striped NATO strap has the 007 gun logo etched into its metal strap holder.

The special model will retail for $6,450 and only a very-appropriate 7,007 units will be offered in a limited number of Omega boutiques.

In the last Bond movie, "Skyfall," Craig wore the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M.

Daniel Craig James Bond Spectre Omega

https://www.google.ca/search?q=The+Omega+Seamaster+300+"Spectre"+is+a+limited+edition+model+of+the+Omega+300+Master&client=opera&hs=Pnv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMIgu3Juu2xxwIVCXs-Ch2r6QbG&biw=1242&bih=634

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