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BookerL

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Midnight Planétarium timepiece

Greetings all


Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication


http://asapscience.tumblr.com/post/74853398373/the-midnight-planétarium-watch-not-only-tells

One of the most notable novelties that were presented by Van Cleed & Arpels at the recently held SIHH 2014 show was undoubtedly Midnight Planetarium piece from its Poetic Complications series. This watch represents cooperation between the luxury brand and the independent watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw who is the mastermind behind the watch’s main feature. The trait in question is planetarium – the exact representation of the actual movement of the first five planets that revolve around the Sun. Naturally, in the tradition of Van Cleed & Arpels, the manner in which this function is represented is quite eye-catching with a heavy use of semi-precious stones on the timekeeper’s dial. The luxurious self-winding timepiece with a 24-hour dial is as expected extremely pricey with its value set at nearly a quarter of a million of dollars. For those who seek even more luxury than the one featured in this mid-sized pink gold watch, there is a more lavish version with a diamond-set bezel which costs around a third of a million.




A Longevous Interest in the Movement of Celestial Bodies


Planetariums which are used to show the accurate movements of celestial bodies have been attracting attention of people for a very long time. Surprisingly, human kind has been able to accurately predict the movement of planets for a very long time. The first recovered device that shows the cosmic dance of the planets around the Sun is Antikythera mechanism, an ingenious mechanical masterpiece that dates from around 100 B.C. In the modern era, we have intricate devices that show the movements of not only planets, but also of stars and other celestial objects which are nowadays visible on a very large scale and placed inside huge dome-shaped venues.


Astrnomical Module Envisioned by Christiaan van der Klaauw


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sw5S2-T-Ogk

Van Cleef & Arpels and their new timekeeper from the Poetic Complications series enable you to have an accurate info about the movement of the first five planets of our solar system in the form of a wrist-sized planetarium which includes proper spheres that designate planets. Midnight Planetarium watch bases its most important feature on a module that was designed by Christiaan van der Klaauw, the independent Dutch watchmaker who is specialized in creation of the timekeepers with an astronomical theme. The module designed by van der Klaauw which is added to an automatic base movement by Van Cleef & Arpels guarantees that each of five planets moves exactly as it does in reality: Mercury revolves once in 88 days, Venus in 224 days, Earth in 365 days, Mars in 687 days, Jupiter in about 12 years and finally, Saturn in more than 29 years. Not only that the period of rotation is accurate, but also are the positions of planets in the correlation to each others, as well is the length of their orbits. As it is safe to assume, the remaining two planets from the Solar system, Uranus and Neptune, are omitted since their years correlate to even longer periods of 84 and 165 of Earth years, respectively. Together with the parts used in the van der Klaauwe’s module, the intricate movement consists of 396 components.

Lucky Day Feature

Apart from the neat planetarium complication, this watch naturally also includes a basic timekeeping feature which is executed via representation of a shooting star, the brand’s recognizable used symbol, which circles on the periphery of the 24-hour dial. Van Cleef Midnight Planetarium has another rare function that the brand named “Lucky Day”. The wearer has an option to rotate the knurled bezel and thus turn the complete sapphire dial with an engraved star. Once you rotate the bezel and place a red arrow pointer to specific date as indicated on the scale that surrounds the 24-hour chapter ring, the mentioned star is placed precisely on the position of the earth on that specific date. This truly peculiar function can be used as a reminder for special dates in the wearer’s life, such as birthdays or various other anniversaries. Naturally, in order for all of this to be possible, the wearer must be able to set the current date. The current date is adjusted by two pushers on the left side of the case and indicated on the appropriate apertures on the rear side. Furthermore, the case-back with a transparent section likewise includes a lovely winding rotor which features star-shaped decorations.

Six Types of Semi-Precious Stones and Pink Gold on the Dial


However, the technical excellence that allows you to wear a proper planetarium on your wrist is just a half of the story. The other half is the execution of the planetarium which is made in accordance with the glorious tradition of Van Cleef & Arpels which is also a world-renowned jeweler. In the center of the dial is the Sun which is represented by a pink gold sphere, while for the planets the manufacturer used selection of different hardstones. Serpentine represents Mercury, chloromelanite is used for Venus, turquoise for the Earth, blue agate for Jupiter and sugilite for Saturn. Each of the spheres is sculpted by an artisan by hand and is made in a different color. Of course, due to the huge differences in size of the planets, these spheres are not scaled models. Moreover, each of the planets (as well as the shooting star in pink gold that shows the time) circles the dial on a separate disc made of aventurine which all in congruence make the face of the watch seem like the night sky. Regarding the dial, we should also say that the aventurine disc which is furthest away from the center contains applied pink gold Arabic numerals and dot-shaped markers that signify 15 minute increments.

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication watch comes in a 44 mm wide round housing made of pink gold. For the attachment, the manufacturer selected a black alligator strap which locks with a folding clasp made of pink gold. Each Midnight Planetarium watch is individually numbered. As it has been mentioned, the basic version of this magnificent timepiece with the astronomical theme is priced around a quarter of a million dollars. There is likewise an even more glamorous version with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and round diamonds on the clasp whose steep price measures to around a third of a million.

http://www.watchalyzer.com/sihh/sihh-2014/van-cleef-arpels-midnight-planetarium-poetic-complication/

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BookerL

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Greetings all


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uc8NsDqZ4OA


Patek Philippe Celestial 5102 Grand Complication. Best Patek Philippe Watch In The World!Posted by Gray & Sons in Features On November 10, 2014
Throughout the history of mankind, we have looked to the sky to measure the passage of time.

https://monochrome-watches.com/patek-philippe-6102p-sky-moon-celestial-price/,
Patek Philippe’s Grand Complication Celestial watch, effectively pays homage to these roots of time-keeping with a watch that not only keeps the minutes and hours but looks skyward to track the position and movement of the moon and stars.

Patek Philippe has maintained their leadership in the world of watchmaking with creativity, and intricate handmade mechanical craftsmanship.

Their extremely limited production Celestial model (reference 5102J) is another example of the fine luxury style that only Patek Philippe can offer.

This exclusive model, first presented to the world at the 2002 Basel Fair in Switzerland, showcases the evening sky as seen from the Northern Hemisphere. The deep blue dial is accented with stars, the familiar swoop of the Milky Way, and the reflective golden moon. This heavenly image alone makes for an incredibly beautiful dial – but there is much more going on here than one might see at first glance.

The Celestial display is actually composed of a series of superimposed stacked sapphire crystal disks that rotate independent of one another. This gives a subtle depth to the dial but also allows for an extremely accurate sky chart showing the position of the moon in relation to the stars. The elliptical window highlights that portion of the sky currently visible as the stars and moon travel around the dial in a dance of carefully calibrated rotations.

As you would expect from such a prestigious watch manufacturer as Patek Philippe, an enormous attention to detail has gone into the Celestial watch:

The side of the 18k yellow gold case is adorned with Patek’s signature Calatrava cross.

The white lacquered, skeletonized hands are both bold and elegant.

The Roman numeral hour markers frame the edge of the celestial display.

Dual winding crowns allow for winding the watch, setting the time, and setting the moon and star displays.

The classic 43.1 millimeter case houses Patek Philippe’s own automatic winding 45-jewel caliber 240 LU CL movement. With the back of the watch showcasing the movement under a transparent sapphire crystal, the timepiece is as interesting to view from the back as it is from the front.

Each Celestial watch is composed of over 300 individual parts, and was produced in extremely limited quantities between 2002 and 2012.

For this unique and complicated watch, Patek Philippe was awarded a Swiss patent ensuring that the Celestial watch will stand as one of Patek Philippe’s most visually and technically impressive wristwatches for generations to come.





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Tourbillon

Greetings all


In horology, a tourbillon is an addition to the mechanics of a watch escapement. Developed around 1795 and patented by the French-Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet on June 26, 1801, a tourbillon aims to counter the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, to negate the effect of gravity when the timepiece (thus the escapement) is stuck in a certain position. By continuously rotating the entire balance wheel/escapement assembly at a slow rate (typically about one revolution per minute), positional errors are averaged out.
Originally an attempt to improve accuracy, tourbillons are still included in some expensive modern watches as a novelty and demonstration of watchmaking virtuosity. The mechanism is usually exposed on the watch's face to show it off.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tourbillon#/media/File:Breguet_MG_2573.jpg

Mechanics of the tourbillon

Gravity has a direct effect on the most delicate parts of the escapement, namely the pallet fork, balance wheel and hairspring. Most notably is the hairspring, which functions as the timing regulator for the escapement and is thus the part most sensitive to any exterior effects, such as magnetism, shocks, temperature, as well as inner effects such as pinning positions (inner collet), terminal curve, and heavy points on the balance wheel.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tourbillon




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Armin Strom Skeleton Pure

Greetings all

http://www.ablogtowatch.com/armin-strom-skeleton-pure-water-fire-watches-hands/
A short video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wR5c7p5YjDI


Armin Strom unveiled their new Skeleton Pure collection last year at Salon QP in London. And we recently got some hands-on time with the steel version, and will give your our thoughts below.

The Skeleton Pure is available in either steel (Water), 18K rose gold (Fire), titanium (Air) or black PVD treated steel (Earth).

Case dimensions are of the circular case are 43.40 mm diameter by 13 mm thick case, with the brand’s signature lip at six o’clock (which can be personalized with an engraving if you like). Polished to a mirror finish are the bezel, lugs and case flanks, whereas the back has a satin-brushed matte finish.

An open-worked movement can be easily done wrong but the depth of the Armin Strom caliber immediately pops out at you, especially because of contrast of blue and silver finishes. All visible through anti-reflective treated sapphire glass, front and rear.

Powered by Armin Strom’s manually wound in-house movement, caliber ARM09-S beats at 2.5Hz (18,000 vph), has 146 components (34 jewels) and double-barrels which provide a lengthy 8-day power reserve (192-hours).

Visually, the non essential elements of the main plate, gear-train bridges and barrel bridges have been trimmed away, revealing components such as the stacked mainspring barrels. Further, the main plate has a blue PVD coating that is colored to match its respective “water” element (whereas the fire, air and earth models feature grey PVD treated main plates). The gear train and barrel bridges feature a rhodium (water) or ruthenium treatment depending on which variation you choose. Many of the bridges, wheels and other components have been decorated with a straight grained matte finish, providing contrast with the polished elements of the movement. Every component is hand finished, including hand bevelled edges for many of the parts.

Framed with a signature off-center clear sapphire dial ring , with applied hour and minute markers, the dial is readable without sacrificing the view of the movement. The small seconds indicator, at 9 o’clock, also features a clear ring. Remaining power reserve is indicated on the left half of the small seconds subsidiary dial, via a red arrow-tipped hand. A prominent hour and minute hands or in stainless steel (on the Air model) features white luminescent material.

Armin Strom’s Skeleton Pure collection is limited to 100 numbered pieces per variation (Water, Fire, Air and Earth). Each piece is individually engraved with “X/100” is on the balance bridge. The Pure Water comes with a dark blue alligator horn-back leather strap with contrast stitching and a buckle, as well as an extra rubber strap also in dark blue. Water-resistance is 50 meters. The retail price is $33,400 is stainless steel (Ref. ST15-PW.05).

Final Thoughts

Amrin Strom makes beautiful open-worked timepieces that have long power reserves and powered by robust Swiss manufacture movements. If you are looking for a unique skeleton timepiece – not built on an existing caliber – the Skeleton Pure are a great option. The black and gold versions are nice but it’s the steel and titanium versions that I find particularly attractive.




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BookerL

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So Who Won at the 2015 Oscars of Watchmaking?

the grand prix d'horlogerie de genève is tomorow
so lets see who wins
http://www.hodinkee.com/

Hello Marc7

Results are out

Thursday evening in Geneva, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards were held in Geneva's Grand Theater. These are the Oscars of fine watchmaking. The nominees were announced back in July and then we got a shortlist in September, but now the waiting is over. According to a jury of 26 watchmakers, journalists, and industry experts, these are the best watches of 2015.Aiguille d'Or (Grand Prize): Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision
No surprises here. It wasn't a shoe-in, but there's no question that Greubel Forsey is making some of the best watches on the planet right now. This is probably the most wearable watch they've made to date. It was one of my favorites at SIHH back in January and I'm still impressed every time I see it. Bravo.Artistic Crafts: Blancpain Villeret Cadran Shakudo
Most of the watches in this category are creations you wouldn't want to wear on a daily basis but might want to encounter in a gallery. This Villeret Cadran Shakudo is right in line with that aesthetic and the multi-colored, multi-layered engraving on the dial is unlike anything else you can find in a wristwatch.Calendar: Hermès Slim d'Hermès QP
This watch wowed journalists and collectors when it was unveiled in March, and I would have been shocked had it not taken this category. The combination of a perpetual calendar, a second timezone, a beautiful moonphase, and custom Art Deco numerals make this a watch you can't help but want to wear.Chronograph: Piaget Altiplano Chronograph
Ultra-thin is what Piaget is all about and until this year there was no chronograph in the brand's slim line-up. There were more complicated and ornate chronographs in the category but the judges seem to have gone with something that people really want to wear. I totally agree with their choice. Jewellery: Audemars Piguet Diamond Punk
Looking at this, you might not guess that it's from the same company that makes the Royal Oak and Millenary, but there you have it. The stonework is astounding and even if it's not your type of watch, you can't ignore just how skilled the artisans are who make it. Ladies': Hublot Big Bang Broderie
If the jury steered toward the wearable in other categories, here they went for the most outlandish pick. The dial and band here feature hand-embroidery in a pattern that mixes flowers and skulls. Not exactly subtle, but oh so very Hublot.Ladies' High-Mechanical: Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock
Often complications are developed for men's watches and then are adapted for ladies' models. This time display though, using a peacock and rotating disks, was created for this watch which combines gem setting, mother of pearl dial work, and mechanical complexity. Mechanical Exception: Jaquet Droz The Charming Bird
The little bird in that bubble flutters its wings and chirps when you push the lone button on the case. It's uncanny and sounds just like the real thing. The idea is taken from eighteenth-century automata, shrunk down to fit on the wrist.Men's: Voutilainen GMR
Kari Voutilainen and his team make very few watches each year and the finishing on each tiny movement component and dial element is top-tier and inspired by traditional pocketwatches. The overall look of the watches though is thoroughly modern and distinctive.Petit Aiguille: Habring2 Felix
In a category focused on relatively lower prices, the judges didn't compromise on quality. The Felix houses Habring2's first in-house movement designed and made in Austria and the clean looks make it something you can wear everyday. This is a real watch guy's watch.Sports: Tudor Pelagos
The Pelagos isn't new, but Tudor updated it with a bright blue color scheme and also added its new in-house movement earlier this year. The new Pelagos is equal parts indestructible and innovative. No one can argue with this award.Striking: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges
The exaggerated gold bridges are a signature of Girard- Perregaux, but the mechanism they're supporting is totally new. The open dial lets you really admire the complex chiming mechanism that makes this watch special.Tourbillon: Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon
Known more for its ornate and over-the-top watches, this Ulysse Nardin opts for technical innovation instead of brash aesthetics. The tourbillon also boasts a special escapement that further enhances accuracy and reliability over time. Plus that enamel dial is just super handsome. Horological Revelation: Laurent Ferrier Galet Square
Ferrier is a long-time veteran of Patek Philippe and with his own brand is creating very high-end watches in small numbers. This is his first non-round watch and it packs all the same technology in the movement as the round models. Jury Prize: Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260
This is the most complicated watch ever made. Full stop. It wasn't nominated for anything (it wasn't even announced until just a few weeks ago), but the jury decided to give it a special nod anyway. Innovation Prize: Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon of Tourbillons
This is the very first watch to combine three tourbillons in a single mechanism, and was created by a father-son duo. This watch also received the public prize, voted for online not by the jury but by the public. It was the only watch to win two awards.Revival Watch: Piaget Extremely Piaget Double Sided Cuff
If the Altiplano shows off Piaget's watchmaking chops, this shows off the brand's jewelry skills. This cuff has two watches and multiple rings of diamonds, recalling vintage pieces from the company's archive.




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BookerL

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The Charming Bird watch is an automaton for your wrist

Greetings all


More about The Charming Bird watch is an automaton for your wrist.

The Swiss watchmaking firm Jaquet Droz has short-circuited the 18th and 21st centuries with the Charming Bird. It's a wristwatch that includes a tiny automaton bird inside the crystal, that sings and dances at the press of a button.

The mechanical watch was introduced at the April 2013 Baselword fair in Basel, Switzerland to commemorate the 275th anniversary of Jaquet Droz, which was founded in 1738 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, who created three of the most advanced humanoid automatons of the 18th century.

According to Jaquet Droz, the Charming Bird is the first singing bird automaton wristwatch ever made and the fourth step in the company’s revival of 18th century miniature painting, engraving, sculpture, automata technology, and miniaturization. The 47-mm 18-carat white gold case not only includes the painstakingly detailed bird, but also uses a background of a transparent sapphire to reveal the hand-wound, 29-jewel Jaquet Droz 610 movement, which runs for 40 hours at 21,600 vibrations per hour.

Piston-driven bellows provide the singing, and the bird is finely detailed down to the eyes. It dances, opens and closes its beak, and flaps its wings as it sings. The dial is off-center above the blister containing the bird, and sports blue steel hands. The watch also includes an alligator leather strap with an 18-carat white gold folding clasp.

The Charming Bird may be charming, but it’s not cheap at an asking price of US$500,000. Production is limited to only 28 units.







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Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes vision

Greetings all



http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/so-who-won-at-the-2015-oscars-of-watchmaking-/41749134
According to a jury of 26 watchmakers, journalists, and industry experts, these are the best watches of 2015.Aiguille d'Or (Grand Prize): Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision
No surprises here. It wasn't a shoe-in, but there's no question that Greubel Forsey is making some of the best watches on the planet right now. This is probably the most wearable watch they've made to date.
http://www.greubelforsey.com/en/collection/tourbillon-24-secondes-contemporain-0
http://www.greubelforsey.com/en/collection/tourbillon-24-secondes-vision
« Sophistication »

Our primary intention is to present our third invention in a case that is as slender as possible and yet able to accommodate the inclined Tourbillon cage.

It was the lateral projections of our asymmetrical models that gave us the idea for an original solution. By incorporating a dome into the sapphire crystal on the back of the Timepiece, we have created enough extra volume to allow the tourbillon cage to overlap the reference surface of the rear bridges.

The dome is a new and intriguing element that directs attention to the lower bridge of the Tourbillon.

This bridge is more than just a supporting element, it is a triumph of technology and craftsmanship. Its geometry is similar to a Roman vault and its surface is gently polished by hand. Obtaining a perfectly straight reflection over the whole piece requires such expertise and experience that each bridge finished in this way is signed by the craftsman-decorator who executed it.

Apart from the exceptional standard of decoration that naturally applies to all 288 parts in the movement, the play of colours and finishes creates a spectacular visual dynamic, with pride of place given to the sectorial 72-hour power-reserve indicator.

« Simplicity »

This new creation is also distinguished by its elegant, neoclassical simplicity. The overall aesthetic is extremely refined, paying homage to the standard of creation and the finesse of each component.

Particular care has been given to the design of the hands that indicate the time immediately and precisely. They have been lightened to the maximum degree and their form, in the shape of a lance, leads

the eye straight to the indications that are first engraved and then “oven-firing” enamelled into the solid gold of the dial.

The fast-rotating Tourbillon 24 Secondes is also an integral part of the graphic composition of the entire piece. Set inside a light well, it creates an animated scene that is an irresistible invitation to explore the back of the timepiece.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=Greu...ChMIxJumjomcyQIVTVyICh0Zqw8W&biw=1242&bih=634


https://www.google.ca/search?q=Greu...ChMIxJumjomcyQIVTVyICh0Zqw8W&biw=1242&bih=634

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The Rolex Paul Newman Daytona

Good evening Ladies and Gents



One the most prestigious watch in the world without "Grand complications ".

https://vimeo.com/79448585

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona

The Rolex Paul Newman Daytona https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona


In the second installment of our Reference Points series we will tackle perhaps the most discussed family of watches in modern timepiece collecting. This watch is as infamous as it is famous, it's as dangerous as it is beautiful, and valuable as it is rare. I'm talking about nothing short of the Rolex "Paul Newman" Daytona, and here we will explore the six references of this absolutely legendary timepiece, as well as go into its history, ups, downs, ins and outs. But first, if you haven't read our first "Reference Points" feature on Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs, we encourage you to do so here.

First things first, this report will not be an exposé on the life of Paul Newman, nor the several watches that he wore. For that, I encourage you to read this story over at Jake's Rolex World. Here will examine each reference of the Paul Newman Daytona so that you, our dear readers, will understand the varying qualities of this highly collectible and oft misinterpreted watch.

So, What Makes A Paul Newman A Paul Newman?
Rolex Daytona 6239 Paul Newman Comparison of Dials on Hodinkee1 OF 28
Images via Antiquorum.com
Both of the watches you see above are Rolex Cosmograph Daytonas Reference 6239 in stainless steel with black dials. Both were made (approximately) in 1967. The 6239 on the left would have a fair street market value of around $25,000-$30,000, while the 6239 on the right would have a value of around $90,000-$100,000. To be specific, the watch on the left sold for $28,750 in December of 2013, while the one on the right sold for $93,750 in the very same auction. These two watches are all but identical mechanically, and in fact the case of the 6239 on the left appears to be even stronger than the case of the 6239 on the right – so why was there a price difference of $65,000 between the two? Because the watch on the right is a Paul Newman Daytona, and the one on the left is not. The only difference, really? The dial, and that's it. The only thing that makes a vintage Daytona a "Paul Newman" Daytona is the dial. And that is why the Paul Newman is one of the most dangerous vintage watches to buy. More on that shortly.

Let's zoom in on some dials so you can see, specifically, what makes a Paul Newman a Paul Newman:

Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 6241 dial on Hodinkee2 OF 28
Close-Up of 6241 Paul Newman
Rolex Daytona reference 6239 Panda dial on Hodinkee3 OF 28
Close-Up of Regular 6239
In the two photos above, you can see the differences quite clearly. The Paul Newman features an art deco style font for the numerals, and the hash marks have a small square at the end. Additionally, there is a small "step" in the dial between the outer minute track and the center of the dial. In this particular example of the 6241 PN, the dial features a third color (red) which adds a bit of character. But, are a few little design traits worth paying that much more for a Daytona? When the exotic dials were first shown by Rolex, not many believed so.

In fact, these dials sat on shelves for years and years. The traditional Daytona dials were much preferred by Rolex clients to the funky multi-colored dials that now fetch so much money to collectors. As such, it is not uncommon to see Paul Newmans with original sales receipts in some cases several years, if not decades, later than the production date. This is just one reason why the world of Paul Newmans is so murky.

And, because these exotic dials didn't sell well, Rolex simply didn't make that many of them. Andrew Shear of ShearTime estimates that for every 20 normal Daytona dials, there would be one exotic dial made. And we mustn't forget that Rolex was not the vertically integrated manufacturer that it is today – it was another company, Singer, who was making the dials for them. And Singer was making "Paul Newman" style dials for not just Rolex, either. For example, here is a two register Vulcain with exotic style dial that we sold in our Chicago Pop-Up last year for practically nothing.

Vulcain with Paul Newman dial4 OF 28
It is Singer's involvement with the production of these massively valuable dials that makes the whole situation even murkier still. In the period of the 1980s through the early 2000s, when exotic dial Daytonas gained in popularity and Italian collectors soon proclaimed them The "Paul Newman" Daytonas, we began to see an enormous up-tick in the numbers of these dials. And this is when the slow-seller of the 1960s and 70s became the hottest vintage watch in the world.

The Power Of Paul Newman, And The Italians
Paul Newman wearing a Rolex Daytona 5 OF 28
Image Via Jake's Rolex World
Above you see a photograph of Mr. Newman wearing his own Reference 6239 exotic dial. It is not clear when this photo was taken, or for what, but it since become the quintessential Newman on Newman photograph (borrowed from my friend Jake). But, how did this dog of a watch become such an icon, and how exactly did watch collectors discover Mr. Newman's tie to this particular dial? The often told yet completely unsubstantiated story is that Newman wore his 6239 on the cover of an Italian magazine, and that it was at that moment that the powerful Italian collector/dealer base decided it would be the next thing in watches. I've never seen this magazine cover, nor spoken to a single person that has either. But, some how, some way, Newman's ownership of an exotic dial Daytona became known, and the watch was off to the races, so to speak.

Let's take a look at a copy of The Habsburg, Feldman (now Antiquorum) catalog I keep in my office, which shows estimates for some fantastic watches on December 7th, 1988.

Catalog with Rolex Daytona Paul Newman6 OF 28
Here you see two reference 6241 Paul Newmans. One of them is in gold and has an estimate of $8,000-$10,000. The other is steel and has an estimate of $3,000 to $3,500. There is a third PN in this catalog – a steel 6239 white dial, with an estimate of $3,000 to $4,000. FOR A PAUL NEWMAN DAYTONA. It doesn't sound like much, but remember, retail on this watch just 15 years before was $300. Still, it's interesting to note how quickly the prices of of Paul Newman have climbed since right around this sale.

If we take a 20 year look at the Paul Newman, using the 6239 white dial as our model, you can see that the rise is meteoric. In fact, there isn't another serially produced watch in the world that could match the increase in value that we've seen with Paul Newmans over the past 20 some years.

Price of Rolex Daytona Paul Newman9 OF 28
2013 $75,000 (Christie’s, New York, June 11, 2013)

2008 $66,000 (Antiquorum, October 17, 2008)

2003 $39,434 (Antiquorum, October 11, 2003)

1998 $17,296 (Christie’s, London, March 18, 1998)

1992 $9,257 (Antiquorum, April 11, 1992)

But, because of this, and because there is no technical difference between a basic Daytona and a Paul Newman Daytona beyond the type of dial it uses, it has presented one of largest opportunities for the ugly side of vintage Rolex to rear its head. There are more fake Paul Newman dials in the world than there are fake dials for all other watches combined. In fact, based on conversations with seasoned collectors, it is fair to say there are more fake Paul Newman dials in the world than there are real ones. It is for this reason that for the Paul Newman in particular, I highly, highly recommend you buy the seller as much as the watch when looking for one of these undeniably cool chronographs. I will not go into how to spot fake Paul Newman dials in this article – it's a rabbit hole simply far too wide and deep to explain in a solitary article. We also do not want to encourage anyone who might be looking to create a counterfeit dial by telling them what they're doing wrong. But, below I will explain each of the six references that you may come across in perusing the Paul Newman so that you can understand the differences.

Reference 6239
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 623910 OF 28
The first, most common, and least expensive Paul Newman Daytona also happens to be the most authentic, in that it's the actual reference worn by Newman himself. The 6239 features pump pushers and a steel bezel, with the Rolex Valjoux 722 beating inside. It may be found with both a white or black dial with production beginning in the mid 1960s, certainly after the MK 1 Daytonas found only in 1963. The dial is a three color dial, in that it consists of black, white, and red, and features the word "Daytona" written above the register at 6 o'clock.

Reference 6241
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 624111 OF 28
The 6241 is identical to the 6239 in every way, but with the addition of a black acrylic bezel. Again, we have the Valjoux 722, a three color dial, and pump pushers. More desirable and rare than the 6239, expect a 10-15% premium on the 6241 compared to your basic 6239.

Transitional Reference 6262
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 626212 OF 28
This is a 6262. Looks a hell of a lot like the 6239, doesn't it? It does. In fact, it's all but identical on the outside. On the inside, however, the 6262 features an upgraded Valjoux caliber called the 727. The base 722 found in the 6239 beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour, while the new 727 is sped up to 21,600 beats per hour. The 6262 features a steel bezel, tri-color dial (though it may be found with a two-color dial, too), and pump pushers. It is only made for one year, from 1970-1971, and is a very rare reference, though because it looks just like the 6239, doesn't fetch a tremendous premium. Still, if you're a nerd like me, the 6262 is a super cool watch.

Transitional Reference 6264
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 626413 OF 28
The 6264 is the black bezel counterpart to the 6262. Again, made only for just one year, the 6264 features the upgraded, higher beat caliber 727, pump pushers, and a black acrylic bezel. Though the example pictured here in 18k yellow gold, a steel example would indeed feature a stepped three color dial with "Daytona" above 6 o'clock as well, though it is possible to see a two-color dial on a 6264. Again, the 6264 is a very rare reference made for just one year, and serves as the bridge between the low-beat, pump pusher Daytonas and the high-beat, Oyster Daytonas.

Oyster Reference 6265
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 626514 OF 28
Starting around 1970 you begin to see the final two references of the manually wound Rolex Daytonas. Reference 6265, as seen here, features a thicker "Oyster" style case with screw-down pushers. The 6265 features a graduated stainless steel bezel, and now instead of three color dial, you have a traditional "Panda" style dial in just white and black. Additionally, there is no "Daytona" written above 6 o'clock. Further, there is no such thing as a 6265 Paul Newman with a black dial that is signed "Rolex Oyster Cosmograph." The only black screw-down Paul Newman Daytona should be signed "Rolex Cosmograph Oyster," and they are extremely rare at that. More on that below.

Oyster Reference 6263
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 626315 OF 28
The Rolex Cosmograph Oyster Reference 6263 with a Panda Paul Newman dial is, how do I say this... perfect? Yes, that's it. The Panda 6263 is the most desired, most beautiful, and most expensive standard Paul Newman Daytona around. There is just something about the way the white two-color dial plays against the black acrylic bezel. Of course, the 6263 mimics the 6265 technically with the Valjoux 727 inside, with screw-down pushers. Again, you will not find a black dial 6263 Paul Newman with "ROC" signature, but you will find a few with "RCO." And by a few, I mean really a few. It is estimated that less than 20 black dial screw-down Paul Newmans are known, and when they come up for sale, they do really, really well. Like, you know, over $1,000,000 well. While the panda dial 6263's are certainly more common than your black dial RCO's, they are by no means common, and finding an original Oyster PN in good condition is becoming increasingly difficult. As such, the asking price of any nice 6263 Paul Newman is now over $200,000, where a silver dial, non-PN 6263 is around $40,000 in mint condition. Crazy, but true. That begs the question, if the Paul Newman is all about the looks, are they really worth the remarkable premium?

The Future Of The Paul Newman Daytona
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman all dials 16 OF 28
Do not, even for a single second, try to reason with yourself why prices of Paul Newmans are so, so much higher than normal Daytonas. Or, why they are so, so much higher than exotic dial Heuers, Universals, or other comparable chronographs from similar time periods. It just doesn't make sense if you look at things on an even remotely pragmatic level. But, nothing about collecting watches, in particular vintage Rolex watches, makes sense on paper, does it?

Rolex Daytona Paul Newman and Universal Geneve Compax17 OF 28
Is the Paul Newman a rare watch? Yes, it is. It's actually far more rare than you might imagine based on how many you see in the online space. There are a lot of dials out there that should not be on the watches they're on. There are a lot of dials out there that are really fake, and a lot of dials out there that are a little fake, and there are dials out there they are real, but on the wrong watch – indicating someone has swapped parts around (Why would someone do this, you ask? Say for example you have a highly polished case on a 6239 with a Paul Newman dial, but the dial is in mint condition. Then, you have a 6241 with a mint case but a normal, non-PN dial. All one would have to do to make that 6241 into $100,000+ watch is swap the dial, but if you do that with the incorrect reference, all of a sudden, you have a dial that doesn't match the watch.) So, what I'm saying is that while you see a lot of watches that look like Paul Newmans, finding a 100% correct Paul Newman is no easy task, let alone one in nice shape. But, on top of that, a Paul Newman is still far less rare than two early chronographs I am particularly fond of: The Mark 1 6239 Daytona, and the 2915 Speedmaster. Both of these watches will run you $60,000 to $80,000 if in great shape, and I think they are both slightly more interesting than a Paul Newman, which today starts at $100,000. But, that doesn't mean they're cooler, or even have a bigger upside financially.






The article continues https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona




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Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Fantasy

Dreamers


1 OF 4
Let's start with the facts. Daytona sale at Christie's was monstrously successful. For the first time, there was a literal packed house, with reserved seating, and standing room only. 400 people were in the sale room, with a line of others waiting to get in. The buzz was just incredible.

And the results? The results of these fifty watches were INSANE. The total sale brought in $13,248,167, and keep in mind there were just fifty watches. And they were Rolexes...most of which were in steel. If you divide the total sale price by the number of lots, you get a number of $264,963 as an average sale price. Just unbelievable results for Daytonas.

Here is a look at some of the more interesting results from our perspective:

2 OF 4
Lot Number 1: Double Swiss Underline Sold for $296,250
This is lot number one, and a watch I have a particular interest in. It's a true first series Daytona - or so called Double-Swiss underline, and dates to 1963. It's one of my favorite watches in the world, and one I've spent a lot of time researching, and writing about. I really believe this watch deserves to be more valuable than where you see them trade, and last night, it was. This nice example of a mark 1 Daytona sold for $296,250, more than most normal Paul Newmans in the sale.

3 OF 4
Lot 7 - Pulsation dial 6239 made $838,090
Another very strong result went to a seldom seem, but again, non-Paul Newman 6239 pump pusher. This very rare Daytona with a medical pulsation dial brought in an impressive $838,090.

4 OF 4
Lot 17 - Black
But, the most impressive (though maybe least surprising) result of the night belonged to this king amongst Paul Newmans - the Rare "RCO" Daytona, in incredible condition. The RCO Daytona is remarkably rare, and has a history of strong selling . According to an interview with dealer Eric Ku some years back, the RCO is also the only authentic Paul Newman dial in black with screw down pushers. This monster watch brought down $1,089,186 when all the bidding was done, making it the most expensive Daytona ever sold and the first time a Daytona broke $1 million. The previous record belonged to this "lemon dial" from earlier this year.

We will have to wait to see what these results will mean for the Daytona market over all. Will the average Paul Newman be closer to $300,000 instead of $100,000? Probably not, but we did see that exceptional quality and condition will be handsomely rewarded at auction. I can also say that as a spectator, it was really a thrill to be right in the middle of this record-setting auction, where each lot set a new record for its respective reference and configuration.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/recapping-the-50-record-setting-christies-rolex-daytona-sale




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Rolex Big Crown Submariner Ref 6200 with Explorer Dial

Greetings all




So simple so expensive http://blog.perpetuelle.com/vintage/rolex-big-crown-submariner-ref-6200-with-explorer-dial/

The highlight of Antiquorum’s recently concluded (March 16) “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” auction in Geneva was this exceptional Rolex “Big Crown” Sub (Ref. 6200), circa 1954. The extremely rare Rolex has the attractive “Explorer” style dial (with printed 3, 6, and 9 instead of hash marks) and was rated overall to be in exceptional condition. The Ref 6200 is rarer than both its counterpart Sub references 5510 and 6538 and is certainly a grail for many Rolex collectors. After intense bidding it sold for a whopping CHF 183,750 (incl. Buyer’s premium) — about $210,000 at current f/x. This result is more than 2.5 times the high end of the pre-sale estimate range and evidences continued strength at auction for exceptional examples from Rolex. While some might see it as insane amount of money for a stainless steel Rolex Sub, the Buyer surely disagrees. In any case, the vintage Rolex market seems to know no bounds these days.

Rolex Big Crown Submariner Ref 6200 with Explorer Dial

38mm steel case

Rolex Ref 6200 Explorer Dial



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Bond Rolex for sale

Greetings all



Here's a $200,000 Rolex that doesn't tell time -- and why you should want it (Video)
http://www.bizjournals.com/bizjourn...-200-000-rolex-that-doesnt-tell-time-and.html

Full disclosure: I’m a fan of the wristwatch, which is why I’ve recently highlighted for you, the loyal reader, things like the Moto360 and the world’s most complicated watch.
I’m also a big movie fan, which is why showing off the various branding placements in the James Bond series was a treat for me.
Today, those worlds collide as this Bloomberg video offers a rare item coming up soon at auction — the Rolex watch worn by Roger Moore in the Bond film “Live and Let Die.”



Here’s the tricky part — this particular Rolex Submariner, well, it doesn’t tell time. That said, it’s an interesting trinket that will be a nice get for someone with about $200,000 to throw around, which, doesn’t include me at this point.
To find out more about the watch, including a look at how the watch helped 007 get out of a couple of jams, check out the video.




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Rolexes

Watchers

The estimated price for the stainless steel watch, made in 1972, was between 150,00-250,00 Swiss francs.


Rolex "James Bond" Submariner from "Live and Let Die"


A Rolex watch worn by Roger Moore in the James Bond film "Live and Let Die" has sold at auction in Geneva for 365,000 Swiss francs ($363,000, 335,000 euros), the auction house Philipps said Monday.
The estimated price for the stainless steel watch, made in 1972, was between 150,00-250,00 Swiss francs.
The buyer's name was not disclosed.
In the film, the watch is used to create a magnetic field which deflects bullets fired at the MI6 agent. At another point, Bond uses this magnetic force to undress a woman.
At the Sotheby's auction in Geneva on Wednesday, two pieces owned by another ex-Bond star will go under the hammer.
Scottish actor Sean Connery is selling a 15.4-carat pink and orange diamond, which could fetch above $2 million and a ring boasting 5.18 carats of diamonds, with an estimated sale price of $250,000.




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montreal or costa rica baby
I do have a modest collection of watches and a few finer time pieces. (I mainly appreciate chronographs, older valjoux movements and anything mechanical)
I splurged on myself today to bring in the new year with style and just purchased a breitling super ocean for myself from my favourite online retailer.. ref A13341X9/BA81
 

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2016 baselworld

Hello watchmen

The biggest watch show on Earth approaches

http://www.constantinwild.com/blog/showdates/baselworld/,
BASELWORLD is the world’s biggest and most important event for the jewellery and watch industry. Visitors will be given a unique overview of everything the industry has to offer: new collections, creations and innovations.

The world’s most important diamond, precious stone and pearl dealers are present in Hall 3. As every year, Constantin Wild will be greeting visitors in Hall 3.1.

Ceramic dials for the Rolex
https://www.google.ca/search?q=2016...K3vrKrKAhWFxxQKHdroCDAQsAQIJw&biw=993&bih=495



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Omega Rio Collection

Hello all


In this Olympic year Omega introduces the Rio Collection

As the world's greatest athletes prepare for the Rio 2016 Olympic Games, OMEGA has already set the winning standard in watchmaking. To celebrate the excitement and anticipation of this global event, two new timepieces are topping the podium, inspired by glory and triumph, and the unbreakable unity that brings the world together.




https://www.omegawatches.com/watches/specialities/olympic-collection/rio-2016/

https://www.google.ca/search?q=the+...ved=0ahUKEwihu6TwvunKAhUEcz4KHZXvDbsQ_AUIBigB




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SIHH 2016: What to Expect from the World's Most Important Luxury Watch Exhibition

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Famous Forbes Magazine preview of the watch fare ,
SIHH 2016: What to Expect from the World's Most Important Luxury Watch Exhibition.

http://www.forbes.com/sites/roberta...s-the-most-important-exhibition/#205a1d4c2d39.

I like to think of this article, in journalism terms, as the “Who, What, When, Where, Why” of the World’s Most Luxurious Watch Exhibition: SIHH (2016).

Starting on Monday January 18 and running through the week, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) opens its doors to more than 15,000 invited journalists and retailers from around the world. At this exhibition, the finest watch brands in the world gather in Geneva (at the Palexpo convention center) to display their newest timepieces. Referred to by insiders as the Salon, the show is organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), Geneva. (The FHH was founded in 2005 to disseminate information about Swiss watchmaking and the world of creativity, tradition and vision that define the segment.)

FHH has also taken on the role of organizing the SIHH, which is now in its 26th year. The show has grown and changed over the course of its two-and-a-half-decade life (more to come on that shortly), so that today it is not only the first watch exhibition of the year globally, but also the most luxurious exhibition of its type in the world.

You see, this by-invitation-only exhibition is considered the most exclusive of its sort, with just about two dozen brands showcasing their newest timepieces. In many instances, these debut watches – that will shape wrists for the coming year or more – are the fruit of years and years of research and development.

This year, in addition to the Richemont Group watch brands exhibiting (Montblanc, IWC, Roger Dubuis, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier , A. Lange & Sohne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin), other top brand names, including Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, Parmigiani Fleurier, Greubel-Forsey, also join the line up—as they have for several years. This year, though, there is also a new component to SIHH: Independent watch brands. For the first time almost since its inception, SIHH has invited young, independent brands to exhibit in a special space within the fair. Nine extraordinary brands join the already prestigious roster: Hautlence, H. Moser & Cie, Laurent Ferrier, HYT, MB&F, Urwerk, Christophe Claret, Kari Voutilainen, De Bethune.

Why does it matter? Like any industry, the watch industry has its cream-of-the-crop brands and exhibitions. SIHH showcases the extraordinary talents of some of the finest brands in Switzerland – many with roots dating back to the 1700’s. These are the brands that can turn the tides of time with their inventions, creativity and thinking. Many, thanks to amazing Nano technology and micro machining, have changed the way time is read, the way time is tracked and even, the look of the watch on the wrist. Many of these brands have pioneered technology inside the watch, as well as outside, bringing space-age, three-dimensional watches to the forefront and bringing some of the most ancient arts of engraving, enameling, tiling, mosaic work and others to dial as canvas.


Like any industry, if the watch industry doesn’t move forward, it dies. Invention and re-invention are what make a 500-year-old craft relevant in today’s high-tech world. Watch exhibitions like this one matter because they offer the brands a platform to unveil not only new timepieces, but also new materials, new technical advancements and new ways of thinking.



While the BaselWorld exhibition has been in existence much longer than SIHH, the SIHH is, nonetheless, the luxurious counterpart. In fact, from the very first SIHH exhibition in 1991, the concept was always to offer a luxurious, intimate, exclusive setting worthy of the brands exhibiting.

Over the 26 years of SIHH, I have missed only one (1992) and so I have watched the show morph, grow and become the luxury exhibition it is today.




The first show, in 1991, opened with Cartier and four other brands (Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth), and was held in thee same March timeframe as what was then known as the Basel Fair (BaselWorld, today). With this structure, retailers and press could easily travel from Basel to Geneva (or vice versa) and visit both fairs in one trip.

In those infant years, SIHH saw exhibitors such as Bovet, Girard-Perregaxu and, at one point, Franck Muller (which later started its own watch show for its brands that continues today to run concurrently with SIHH at its workshops in Genthod).




In 2009, SIHH made a bold move — changing its time frame away from the Basel fair’s March date and into the January time slot. Show management at the time said the change was made because of scheduling conflict dates at Palexpo, and many people feared retailers and press would not want to make two trips to Switzerland in a three-month time frame. They did.




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