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Any one is a high end watch connoisseurs on the board???

BookerL

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Three of the latest Tourbillons,....
A true Tourbillon for under $1000 (first came on the market for $250).
http://www.ablogtowatch.com/aatos-tiago-review-is-this-the-cheapest-tourbillon-watch-in-the-world/4/

The one I would sort of like:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/The-TAG-Heuer-Carrera-Heuer-02T Starting at $15000
And the one I really want: http://www.calibre11.com/tag-heuer-double-tourbillon/ starting at 185,000 Euros

I'll settle for my Citizen solar powered WWV radio enabled watch: http://www.citizenwatch.com/en-ca/watches/watch-detail/?model=AT4007-54E
The Citezen is accurate to 0.25 seconds in 20 million years.. Not like my mechanical Tag that looses 20 seconds a day.

Very impressive founds

A tourbillons a 15K with a COSC certification a never seen in the High caliber Swiss watch industry





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BookerL

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The bird repeater

Greetings all



Great watches stories

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TV-SZQcS23Q

http://www.jaquet-droz.com/the-bird-repeater/en/


http://montecristomagazine.com/style/jaquet-droz-bird-repeater-watch

By 1775, when King Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette discovered the work of Pierre Jaquet Droz, he had already been building horological devices for nearly 40 years. His watchmaking manufacture, the very first ever such edifice in Geneva, was to open nine years later, in 1784. With the Bird Repeater Geneva watch, announced to the world in mid-2015, the house of Jaquet Droz affirms its own illustrious history, and makes clear the idea of art and function working in harmony.

The watch face is hand-engraved and hand-painted, including the red gold dial, the onyx subdial, the nest, and the birds themselves. Only eight were made, and each has an engraved number on the case back. Number five was displayed at a private event at Montecristo Jewellers recently, and drew plenty of admiration.


It is a remarkable achievement. The two parent birds actually “feed” the three babies in the nest each hour; a white opal egg breaks apart, and a bird emerges from it, to taste its first meal. The watch has a 47-milimetre diameter, is nearly 19 milimetres high, and is a marvel of inventiveness, playfulness, and technical prowess.



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BookerL

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Jaquet droz the twelve cities aventurine

Greetings all
https://www.google.ca/search?q=The+...sAQIIg&biw=1242&bih=599#imgrc=-Ssjskd16Ah05M:
For frequent travelers 12 time zones at a touch of a button:clap2:

THE TWELVE CITIES AVENTURINE

Aventurine dial, white mother-of-pearl center. Stainless steel case. Self-winding mechanical movement. Power reserve of 68 hours. Jumping hours. 12 cities through an aperture at 6 o'clock. Diameter 39 mm.



Simply by pressing a push-button at 2 o’clock, the cities of London, Geneva, Istanbul, Mecca, Moscow, Phoenix, Mexico, New York, Beijing, Tokyo, Sydney, Azore. and their respective times appear in the apertures on the sub-dial.

Jaquet Droz 5153, self-winding mechanical movement, double barrel, 12 time zones, jumping hours, heavy metal oscillating weight, Centered minutes Jumping hours through an aperture at 12 o'clock 12 cities through an aperture at 6 o'clock, 28 jewels, 39mm case.





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BookerL

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Jaquet droz celebrates the chinese new year with a tribute to the fire rooster

Greetings all

https://www.google.ca/search?q=12+D...hVkAcAKHV3iDa8Q_AUIBigB#imgrc=C5uWKGOsU6asuM:


http://www.jaquet-droz.com/en/news/...the-chinese-new-year-tribute-the-fire-rooster





Since its founding, Jaquet Droz has never stopped traveling the world. Traversing the courts of Europe, the twin-star brand was among the first to discover the Middle Kingdom in the 18th century and introduced its creations to the Forbidden City. This fondness for the East and Chinese civilization have profoundly influenced Jaquet Droz: the historical pieces on display inside the Forbidden City bear witness to the bonds that unite the watchmaking brand and this continent-country as it ushers in the year of the Fire Rooster. For this occasion, the craftsmen of the Ateliers d’Arts have created two new models based on the iconic Petite Heure Minute that are each available in two versions.

Jaquet Droz, Petite Heure Minute Rooster, four pieces

The Fire Rooster is the tenth animal in the Chinese zodiac and embodies all positive forces: civil virtue, combat skills, military presence, courage and a sense of protection, as well as the unique ability to mark the rising of the sun through song. For Jaquet Droz, the rooster, an animal whose relationship to the passage of time is evocative, is also part of the great naturalist tradition cherished by the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker. It is seen in its poetry as well, that of the Petite Heure Minute, whose dial design provides a blank page on which the Ateliers d’Arts can express its most beautiful artistry. It is therefore based on this iconic model of a passage of time, which has become a field for aesthetic expression, that Jaquet Droz has created four new models to celebrate the Chinese New Year.

Jaquet Droz, Petite Heure Minute Rooster, Painting Workshop close-up

Two of the models pay tribute to miniature painting. This extraordinary discipline passed down from the Enlightenment masters is expressed in the form of two Grand Feu enamel dials which are housed in 39 mm red gold cases and set with diamonds for the 35 mm model. The rooster, which is accompanied by peonies (known as "the Queen of Flowers") to represent springtime renewal, is depicted on the underside of the hand-engraved oscillating weight in a watercolor style to echo Chinese calligraphy masterpieces. Each model is unique, depicting true miniature paintings that reflect the artist's skilled hand. To the left of the dial, bamboo shoots represent yet another promise of happiness, that of a year full of youth, rectitude and resilience in the face of adversity.

Jaquet Droz, Petite Heure Minute Rooster, Engraving Workshop close-up

The miniature sculpture technique was used for the other two precious models. Limited to 28 pieces, the first Petite Heure Minute Rooster combines volumes of red gold and its unique light with a dial inlaid with jadeite and mother-of-pearl, which are hand-engraved in the Jaquet Droz workshops. This miniature masterpiece celebrates one of the most symbolic materials in Asia: jade, the symbol of luck and health, which is given as a gift to mark life's most important moments. The dial is then patinated and hand-painted in monochromatic shades that enhance each relief. Ultimately, the splendor of this remarkable creation evokes both the brilliance of the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art and the ingenuity of traditional Chinese painting. Jaquet Droz has also created a limited edition of eight entirely hand-painted pieces illuminated by glistening rooster feathers. These extraordinarily realistic paintings beautifully complement the radiance of the diamonds featured on the pieces. The soft sun rising in the mist, the sloping mountainside and delicate peony petals rendered in a black and white palette are further enhanced by the brilliance of precious stones. This exceptional work is repeated again on the oscillating weight, which is crafted in gold, engraved, patinated and decorated in jadeite.

Featuring a movement with a double barrel and a silicon escapement, these four models demonstrate the degree to which Jaquet Droz's passion and expertise in gemstones, sculpture and miniature painting go hand in hand with the dialog that the twin-star brand has always maintained with China. Furthermore, they illustrate how the New Year, a moment of hope, has never departed from a sense of tradition.



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BookerL

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Greetings all
Six Sensational 'Year of the Rooster' Watches for the Chinese New Year


Piaget,Vacheron-Constantin,Jaquet-Droz,Chopard,Ulysse-Nardin

http://www.forbes.com/sites/roberta...quet-droz-chopard-ulysse-nardin/#1257bf312d12



No more bits and pieces. No more having to look at multiple stories and places online. Today we bring you a comprehensive look at the top luxury watches designed to celebrate the upcoming Chinese New Year beginning on January 28, 2017. This year begins the year of the rooster, and, five top brands unveil six sensational Chinese zodiac watches.


The rooster is the 10th sign in the Chinese zodiac (and was last honored in 2005). The rooster is generally aligned with loyalty, a sociable and friendly (albeit, a bit bossy) nature and with a punctuality that is bound to impress. This boisterous bird promptly calls out dawn and does so while puffing his chest, ruffling his colorful feathers and proudly showing off his scarlet red comb and waddle.



This year the luxury brands that salute the bugler bird include Ulysse Nardin, Jaquet Droz, Chopard, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin – brands known for unveiling an annual timepiece that blends Swiss craftsmanship, Chinese lore and a host of métiers d’arts. Interestingly enough, each brand has depicted the rooster in a decidedly different mode.

Ulysse Nardin, for instance, unveils its Classico Year of the Rooster in 18-karat rose gold and created in a limited edition of just 88 pieces. Powered by the in-house-made UN-815 self-winding movement, the 40mm watch is a COSC-certified chronometer that offers 42 hours of power reserve. The stunning dial depicting the rooster is created in the centuries-old technique of champlevé enamel.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Ulys...pdzRAhWK1IMKHXaPAQIQ_AUICCgB&biw=1242&bih=599


This year the luxury brands that salute the bugler bird include Ulysse Nardin, Jaquet Droz, Chopard, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin – brands known for unveiling an annual timepiece that blends Swiss craftsmanship, Chinese lore and a host of métiers d’arts. Interestingly enough, each brand has depicted the rooster in a decidedly different mode.

Ulysse Nardin, for instance, unveils its Classico Year of the Rooster in 18-karat rose gold and created in a limited edition of just 88 pieces. Powered by the in-house-made UN-815 self-winding movement, the 40mm watch is a COSC-certified chronometer that offers 42 hours of power reserve. The stunning dial depicting the rooster is created in the centuries-old technique of champlevé enamel.


The backdrop for the rooster is a rich copper-colored metallic enamel that reflects the sky at dawn. It is achieved using different metallic oxides in the painting process. Essentially, the dial is carved with a chisel and the carved cells are then painted and fired repeatedly to achieve the depth of color desired. Ulysse Nardin has mastered this craft and is one of the few watch brands to continue to produce unique champlevé enamel dials in its Donze Cadrans dial manufacture. At the base of the dial - - at the feet of the rooster -- are eight blue-centered gold flowers. The rooster stands tall in all its majesty with blue feathers outlined in gold, a white head and a bold red comb.


https://www.google.ca/search?q=Jaqu...UICCgB&biw=1242&bih=599#imgrc=b8wvnpEbqyx7ZM:

Jaquet Droz this year continues its concept of releasing several versions of the Chinese New Year zodiac sign. Each depiction is created in a limited edition of just 28 pieces and there are two dial renditions of the Petite Heure Minute watch depicting the Chinese Fire Rooster. Additionally, each dial design is offered in two versions. One watch dial features a sculpted rooster in 18-karat rose gold standing in the bottom center of the dial and surrounded by a background of smoky gray, black and white flowers. The rooster is in its calling position, beak open and feathers ruffled – all magnificently carved and sculpted in gold. A second version of this dial depiction features the rooster in the same stance, but this time totally painted with dark blue feathers, a golden and red head and lush blue tail feathers – also against the muted background of gray, white and black flowers. Crafted in 18-karat white gold, the case and lugs are set with diamonds.



The second dial design is a fully hand-painted dial with the rooster standing in a similar stance but facing the other way. He is not calling out dawn, but rather seems to be looking at something else in a distracted mode. He is pained in white with rich black feathers and brilliant red comb and mettle. He stands beside green grass and a few pink flowers. This dial version is offered in rose gold and in rose gold case entirely set with diamonds.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Piag...UICCgB&biw=1242&bih=599#imgrc=bAnnMhCkYxf5iM:

Piaget also offers an Altiplano ultra-thin Chinese Zodiac watch in a hand-painted motif. Featuring a white mother-of-pearl background dial, the rooster is pained in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel with feathers in tones of gray, white and black. The bright red comb on his head and wattle on his chin offset it. Master enameller Anita Porchet has painted the dial and will paint each of the 38 limited edition pieces being made. The watch is powered by the Piaget 430-P manual-wind movement and is housed in an 18-karat white gold case 38mm set with diamonds.


https://www.google.ca/search?q=Chop...UICCgB&biw=1242&bih=599#imgrc=OxV8xUI5euJ-CM:

Chopard also uses an ultra-thin movement in its L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rooster watch. For Urushi painting, the brand once again partners with the Yamada Heiando firm in Japan to produce the dials of the 88-piece limited edition watch. The lacquer used in Urushi paining is harvested sap, taken from the Urushi tree just once year. In this watch, lacquer is applied within mother-of-pearl cells that help enhance the iridescence of the rooster, which is painted in vivid blue with gold and orange tail feathers. He rests alongside a bed of eight gladiolas. The L.U.C 96.17-L self-winding movement with micro-rotor powers is equipped with two barrels, offering 65 hours of power reserve. The 39.5mm watch is crafted in 18-karat rose gold.


Vacheron Constantin



Vacheron Constantin unveils two renditions of its Métiers d’Art “Legend of the Chinese Zodiac” watches, each created using sculpture, enamel work and engraving. The hands-free watches are powered by the technically advanced in-house-made mechanical Caliber 2460 G4, and the watch depicts time (hours, minutes, day and date) in jumping format via four apertures. The 237-part movement offers 40 hours of power reserve and the watches carry the distinctive Hallmark of Geneva certification attesting to their superb craftsmanship. The Grand Feu enamel dial of the watch is etched with foliage that is then filled with gold. In the center of the dial – in full glory—stands a three-dimensional sculpted 18-karat gold rooster. The watch is offered in two versions: 18-karat white gold against a blue Grand Feu enamel dial; 18-karat rose gold against a dark salmon-colored Grand Feu enamel dial. Just 12 pieces of each version will be made.

Each of these 'Year of the Rooster' versions is new and will be in stores in 2017. Prices have not yet been established.




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BookerL

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Nicolas Hayek

Greetings all


Nicolas G Hayek the man who saved the swiss watch industry https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas_Hayek



Swatch Group[edit]

Swatch Once Again watch
In the early 1980s, Hayek was asked by a group of Swiss bankers to oversee a liquidation of ASUAG and SSIH, two Swiss watch-making firms which were in turmoil due to heavy competition from Japanese watch manufacturers such as Seiko and Citizen Watch. Hayek believed that the Swiss watch manufacturing industry could remain competitive and that ASUAG/SSIH could recover after a restructuring of operations and a repositioning of the different brands.[8]
Hayek identified problems in products, policies and distribution as well as outdated leadership that needed to be changed.[9] ASUAG for example owned more than 100 separate companies- some big, some small, some modern, some backward. Most of these companies did their own marketing, R&D and assembly.[10]
Hayek invested heavily in automation and the standardization of parts and tooling. This produced economies of scale and improved quality. Production was centralized, and parts were designed to be interchangeable.[11]
The restructuring of the companies coincided with the invention of the Swatch watch which used only 51 parts, as opposed to the nearly 100 parts needed to make a traditional wristwatch without compromising on accuracy or quality[12] and thus was cheaper to manufacture. The Swatch watch helped the Swiss watch industry reconquer a large share of the lower end of the watch market which it had lost to Japanese makers. Although the colorful plastic watch became quickly known for its flamboyant marketing, Hayek always emphasized that the Swatch watch was first and foremost a technological breakthrough.
Having spearheaded the reorganization of ASUAG and SSIH for more than four years, finally bringing about their merger, Hayek, with a group of Swiss investors, took over a majority shareholding in the new group in 1985. He became Chairman of the Board of Directors and Chief Executive Officer in 1986. The merged company was initially named Société Suisse de Microélectronique et d'Horlogerie, or SMH. It later changed its name to Swatch Group.
Hayek played a decisive role in the recovery of the Swatch Group with its watch brands Swatch, Blancpain, Omega, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Certina, Mido, Hamilton, Pierre Balmain, Calvin Klein, Flik Flak, Breguet and Lanco. The strategies he developed in the early 1980s led to the success of the entire Swiss watch industry and regained its leading position worldwide since 1984.
Hayek is also credited with having a fundamental role in the creation of the Smart Car, a small European car created for inner city use by Mercedes-Benz. Original names for the car revolved around the Swatch name — and even today aspects of the car such as its interchangeable body panels are clearly linked with the Swatch philosophy. The name "Smart" was derived by adding the first letters of Swatch and Mercedes to the word "art".
In 1995, Hayek's daughter, Nayla Hayek joined the Board of Directors of the Swatch Group and in early 2010, she became co-Vice-Chairman of the Board. In 2003, his son, Nick Hayek, Jr. became the CEO of the Swatch Group.[13] Hayek remained Chairman of the Board of the Swatch Group until his death. On 30 June 2010, two days after his death, the Board elected Nayla to replace him as Chairman.
Press[edit]



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BookerL

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The Corum Golden Bridge: Chasing The Dragon’s Tail

To the one's that can appreciate miniaturized piece of art



https://www.google.ca/search?q=coru...hVB6YMKHcKQCMEQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=C5eMsbcvsEyBRM:


http://quillandpad.com/2015/02/12/the-corum-golden-bridge/

I have always been a big fan of the Corum Golden Bridge thanks to its mechanical beauty, austere minimalism, and trademark transparency, which paradoxically almost seems mysterious, even though it doesn’t hide a thing.

The Golden Bridge has gone through very few changes over the years despite its age (in 2015 the Golden Bridge turns 35 and the reengineered Golden Bridge turns 10). Its linear movement was reengineered in the early 2000s so as to move the crown position from the back to the between the lugs to improve usability and remedy a spring barrel element that made winding a delicate process.

Corum Golden Bridge Dragon in red gold
Corum Golden Bridge Dragon in red gold
Around the same time, its transparent case underwent a design refresh to bring it into the twenty-first century. There are now two sizes: one resolutely for men and one called Miss Golden Bridge that is resolutely for women (it was practically unisex before that).

One of the original Golden Bridge models
An original Golden Bridge model with crown on the back of the case
But other than those little tweaks, the watch – which is available in a variety of precious case metals (though not in stainless steel), gemstone settings, and variations on the metallization of the sapphire crystal – has changed little since its introduction in 1980.

Corum Golden Bridge Dragon on the wrist
Corum Golden Bridge Dragon on the wrist
Imagine my surprise, then, at Baselworld 2014 to find a Golden Bridge model that managed to capture a little gold dragon between its panes of sapphire crystal.

The creature, which is masterfully engraved in a highly detailed manner (but does not actually breathe fire), entwines its body along the 18-karat gold plates (without actually touching them) of the Golden Bridge’s Caliber CO 113, so that where there was minimalism before, now there is the added element of inspired and meaningful decoration.

Close-up view of the Corum Golden Bridge Dragon
Close-up view of the Corum Golden Bridge Dragon
A flawless pearl is not held by the creature’s mythical paws, but is set into the tip of its tail.

The pearl is a symbol of wisdom, but it also alludes to the fact that in many mythologies, a dragon is the guardian of some sort of treasure (think about the visually sumptuous Hobbit movies, for example, or the adventurous Nibelungenlied).

The treasure that this detailed dragon with its fierce expression guards is, of course, the Golden Bridge’s Caliber CO 113.

Corum Golden Bridge Dragon in a black DLC-treated titanium case
Corum Golden Bridge Dragon in a black DLC-treated titanium case
I could not have been more surprised to see how aesthetically it all works so well together. I am personally such a horological purist that for a few seconds I found it hard to accept that another element could be added to the space inside the Golden Bridge’s transparent case without distracting from the austere beauty of the linear, minimalist movement.

The Corum Golden Bridge takes horological minimalism to its purest form
The Corum Golden Bridge (here the most recent version) takes horological minimalism to its purest form
But as the shock wore off and I found myself peering into the transparent case, I discovered that not only did these elements work well together, they are also very beautiful juxtaposed inside their horological phantom zone.

The dragon's tail wraps around the back of the Corum Golden Bridge's central gold bridge
The dragon’s tail wraps around the back of the Corum Golden Bridge’s central gold bridge
Even the reverse side is wondrous: the swishing tail of the dragon crosses the linear red gold base plate, but does not disturb it, detract from it, or distract the eye. The chased red gold of the tail makes for a beautiful contrast to the interplay of the engravings and polishing visible on the 31-millimeter-long plate.

Carefully engraving a gold Corum dragon
Carefully engraving a gold Corum dragon
The dragon is created by first pouring 18-karat red gold into a mold, which provides the precise measurements and the raw shape. The engraver then sculpts the dragon into the gold, truly breathing life into it by using a tiny graver tool to create three-dimensional effects. Two weeks later (that’s how long it takes to complete the engraving), the dragon appears to come alive, its tiny scales and its fierce claws meticulously detailed to the last nanometer.

A family of Corum Golden Bridge Dragons: (l to r) red gold, DLC-treated titanium, diamond-set red gold, diamond-set white gold
A family of Corum Golden Bridge Dragons: (l to r) red gold, DLC-treated titanium, diamond-set red gold, diamond-set white gold
I would truly say that the mythical has met the legendary to make the enchanting Corum Golden Bridge Dragon.

For more information, please visit http://www.corum.ch/en/collection/bridge.

Quick Facts
Case: 34 x 51 x 10.9 mm in red gold with or without 396 round-cut diamonds (approx. 4.15 ct); white gold with or without 80 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.9 ct) and 312 round-cut diamonds (approx. 1.52 ct); titanium with black DLC coating
Movement: manually wound Caliber CO 113; 40 hours power reserve, 18-karat red gold plates and bridges
Functions: hours, minutes
Price: starting at about $80,000





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T. E. Lawrence

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My opinion is that a luxury watch should have a name that everyone recognizes, Otherwise there is no reason to have it. A Seiko is very reliable that should be good enough for almost everyone.
 

BookerL

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Except for Rolex, I do not know any of the other names on the list.

Greetings all and Roy


I have a anecdote,


When I first started as a Booker in the escorting industry my partner was 20 years older then me I already a astute business man .
In are first year running agencies, we did so well that offered me a Rolex 18 K yellow Gold DayDate Presidential with Diamonds on the Dial to the hours .


He said to me it might become handy to close great deals ,because rich will relate ,because you are in the same crowd ,he was right with the High-end part of this business it was a must .



That was 25 years ago




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BookerL

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Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Chronograph Unico Carbon

Greetings all


Shark Tank car fan Robert Herjavec also a aficionado of High - End watches

hublot.com/en/collection/big-bang/big-bang-ferrari-chronograph-unico-carbon-45mm

https://www.deployant.com/spot-watch-shark-tank/
Recently on the show Mr Herjavec has been wearing a Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Chronograph. This watch is bigger than a Daytona at 45.5mm and is made from Hublot’s proprietary Magic Gold. A nice touch is Ferrari’s prancing horse at the 9 o’clock position. It pairs well with a modern Ferrari as the watch has elements that have been taking from the dials of the car. For example the date in its yellow window reflects the gear change display found in the car.



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letsrock2012

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Never liked wristwatch... did have a pocket watch from my grandfather unfortunatly it broke seems repairs are impossible.
Now I have a wooden watch ... no name on it. Weart it some time so as not to be late for a rendez-vous :)
 

BookerL

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The Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication — $23.98 millionPocket watch

Never liked wristwatch


Your are not alone




http://www.businessinsider.com/rare...-graves-jr-supercomplication--2398-million-17

The Supercomplication is among the most complicated and historically important watches ever made by Patek Philippe, or as a matter of fact, by any other watch manufacture. With its two dials, 24 complications, more than 900 parts and a weight of over 1 pound, this 18 karat gold pocket watch pushed the limits of mechanical complexity way beyond any other watch ever produced before. Among other complications it features a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater with Westminster Chimes, sidereal time and a celestial chart including a mapping of the sky over Manhattan. Following five years of planning and assembly, it was delivered in 1933 to its customer, Henry Graves Jr., a millionaire banker and avid watch collector from New York responsible for some of the most valuable Patek Philippe watches on earth.

The watch held the title of the most complicated watch for over six decades, until 1989. And while it was deprived of that title by another creation of Patek Philippe, the Supercomplication managed to claim yet another record title in 1999 as it sold for just a bit over 11 million US dollars at a Sotheby's auction. On the 11th of November, 2014, Sotheby's has re-auctioned the Patek Philippe Supercomplication, selling it for a staggering 20.6 Million Swiss Francs, making the final price $23,984,106 US Dollars including buyer's premium. This has made this magnificent watch the world record holder yet again as the most expensive timepiece ever sold.





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BookerL

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Targeting new demographic in the High-- End watches

Greeting all


This year watch fair brought a change of orientation



http://www.afr.com/lifestyle/watche...-out-the-stops-at-sihh-geneva-20170120-gtvt9a


Luxury watch brands pull out the stops at SIHH Geneva



The first of the year's watch fairs wrapped up in Geneva last week with the usual spread of exotica revealed against an unusual backdrop – namely, recognition that times are certainly changing, and not for the better.

If there were evident trends regarding the watches – a mountain of moon-phase models, a proliferation of grey dials, some lower price points – the predominant conversation was about the need to find fresh customers for creations both extraordinary and everyday.

While the 30 brands exhibiting will be hoping the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie might be a circuit-breaker after consecutive months of declining demand for timepieces, there was open admission that the industry is in unchartered territory.

"Last year was very bad … the future we don't know," were the unvarnished words used by Juan Carlos (Charlie) Torres, chief executive of the world's oldest watch company, Vacheron Constantin, echoing the prevailing sentiment.

The Turbograph Perpetual "Pour le Merite" from A.Lange & Sohne has five complications and a platinum case.
The Turbograph Perpetual "Pour le Merite" from A.Lange & Sohne has five complications and a platinum case. Supplied
Rather than customers shopping for watches, watches – more than ever – need to shop for customers. As to whether the new models are up to such a task, and bear in mind work on many began in happier times, we'll have to wait and see.

Dramatic shifts

While there was plenty to excite enthusiasts, the 15,000 attendees at this year's fair also saw more than the usual shifts in brand positioning, some rather dramatic.

After years of stressing that its watches are dedicated to the alpha male, under the tag line "Engineered for men", IWC decided it cannot ignore the fact that 60 per cent of watches are bought by women and declared its new Da Vinci range firmly one for the female forearm. Previously the brand had admitted merely to making "mid-size" watches largely restricted to the Portofino line.

MontBlanc performed a similar somersault, leaping from desk to track with the repurposing of the Timewalker range as sports watches with a rally theme. The logic behind this? The venerable Minerva facilities Montblanc took over some years back was originally known for stopwatches, hence sports timing "is in our DNA", declared the brand.

IWC's Da Vinci watches are its first made specifically for women.
IWC's Da Vinci watches are its first made specifically for women. Supplied
The shifts continued apace. Jaeger-LeCoultre discovered it could, after all, produce desirable watches for less than a king's ransom, unveiling a Master Control range of striking handsomeness with price tags hovering around the $10,000 mark.

Baume & Mercier injected fresh life into the Clifton range with a raft of spritely detailed "Club" models.

Ulysse Nardin – previously best-known for catering to aficionados – dived into the mainstream – literally, in the case of a Marine Diver LeLocle, possibly the best-looking vintage-themed watch of the fair although not cheap at $14,000.

Engineering feats

The Panerai Lab-ID Luminor 1950 comes with a 50-year guarantee and a price tag of $70,000 odd.
The Panerai Lab-ID Luminor 1950 comes with a 50-year guarantee and a price tag of $70,000 odd. Supplied
The biggest surprise, though, was in the technical category, where Panerai came up with one of the most advanced watches yet seen, the Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days in 49mm, to give it its full name. Thanks to the use of materials such as tantalum-based ceramics and silicons in its movement, this watch works without oils or liquid lubricants of any kind. Such a friction-free environment allows it to be offered – to a limited number of boutique customers only – with an astonishing 50-year guarantee and a commensurate price tag of $70,000 odd.

That looked like a relative bargain compared with another engineering feat on show, Richard Mille's RM 50-03 Graphene. The lightest split-second chronograph yet, this 50mm by 45mm statement weighs just 40 grams including the strap and boasts a case made up of 600 layers of carbon. Just 75 will be produced, yours for around $1.3 million a piece.

Whatever way you look at it this is impressive. It remains to be seen, however, if it's smart. Is this the kind of watch the industry needs right now?

Speaking of "smart", while brands such as IWC and Montblanc have previously looked at connected devices, there were none to be seen this time around.

Greubel Forsey's Grande Sonnerie, a 935-part chiming watch, took 11 years to develop.
Greubel Forsey's Grande Sonnerie, a 935-part chiming watch, took 11 years to develop. Supplied
Other watchmakers, too, kept the spotlight firmly on the mechanical in their appeal to well-heeled enthusiasts.

From A.Lange & Sohne came the Turbograph Perpetual "Pour le Merite", a 636-part, platinum-cased triumph with five complications and a $700,000 tag.

From Greubel Forsey came the first Grande Sonnerie, a 935-part chiming watch that took 11 years to develop. Only three to five will be available a year, asking more than $1.5 million.

For a tenth of that price came Urwerk's quirky – and giant – 60mm by 48mm Transformer, a clam of a watch with a swivelling case that hides the dial when you don't need to see the time. It is priced around $130,000.

Urwerk's quirky Transformer has a retractable, swivelling case to hide the dial.
Urwerk's quirky Transformer has a retractable, swivelling case to hide the dial. Supplied
True to form

Upping the novelty stakes were serial offenders MB&F, whose HM7 Aquapod appeared to have been inspired by the planet Saturn. A 53.4mm disc with a tourbillon at its centre, it's described as a "tribute to dive watches" a handy choice of words given the $130,000 piece isn't actually capable of serious diving. It's water-resistant to just 50 metres. Why, then, would you want one? Because it looks like nothing on Earth, let alone anything you've ever seen on the wrist.

As for the earlier mentioned Vacheron Constantin, they were sticking to what they do best, namely impressive complications and Metiers d'Arts models, their hero a watch offering the most features ever seen on a wrist-piece, the Celestia. With 23 complications on twin dials and six barrels for three weeks' power reserve, it displays three types of time – civil, solar and sidereal, each powered by its own gear train.

Also sticking to their knitting were Cartier, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels. The three brands kept style resolutely to the fore in slimmed down and jewelled confections designed to tempt with visual impact rather than merely impress as micro-engineering feats – although many did both.

The question is whether all this creativity will be enough to recapture the attention of an audience increasingly distracted by issues other than the time of day and how gorgeously it might be told.

Bani McSpedden is watch editor of the Australian Financial Review and watch-next.com

Cartier's jewel-encrusted Panthere Royale.






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PATEK PHILIPPE The Contemporary Collection

Greetings all and watch aficionado



PATEK PHILIPPE The Contemporary Collection





The specialist artistic techniques used to decorate timepieces have a long and glorious history at Patek Philippe. Here we learn about the company’s artisans, their skills, and the Stern family’s unique commitment to rare handcrafts past, present and future.



When Patek Philippe celebrates an anniversary or marks a significant moment, the manufacture does it in style – and, it’s been said, watch aficionados hold their breath. After all, there’s no better memento of such an occasion than a superlative timepiece. To commemorate a historic year, Patek Philippe introduces its highly anticipated new limited edition watches – and looks back at the stories of celebratory timepieces and exceptional rare handcrafts from the past.



Art in a Time piece

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George Clooney for Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Collection

Greetings all

Went to the downtown Vancouver Omega Boutique yesterday and tried a few new/recent timepiece .

Their Boutique store is in Fairmont Hotel Vancouver

http://luxexpose.com/george-clooney-for-omega-speedmaster-moonphase-chronograph-collection/

Hollywood actor George Clooney stars in the new film created to introduce the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Collection. The Oscar-winning actor and director George Clooney has been appointed as the new brand ambassador for Swiss watch brand in 2007.




Not only measuring every moment on Earth, the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph collection follows the phases of the moon, as the celebration of the Speedmaster’s legacy as the first watch ever to be worn on the lunar surface. Powering the timepiece is the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9904, which has been officially certified

http://luxexpose.com/george-clooney...ase-chronograph-collection/#jp-carousel-75259

Hollywood actor George Clooney stars in the new film created to introduce the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Collection. The Oscar-winning actor and director George Clooney has been appointed as the new brand ambassador for Swiss watch brand in 2007.

LuxExpose OmegaSpeedmasterClooney 1 George Clooney for Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Collection
My uncle gave me an Omega in 1969. It was my first watch. That was the year that the Apollo 11 crew took Omega with them when they walked on the moon. I couldn’t have been prouder. This company has always been a symbol of class and prestige and I’m honored to be a part of the Omega family – I feel like I always was. – George Clooney

Not only measuring every moment on Earth, the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph collection follows the phases of the moon, as the celebration of the Speedmaster’s legacy as the first watch ever to be worn on the lunar surface. Powering the timepiece is the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9904, which has been officially certified by META.

George Clooney for Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph CollectionThe new Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph features two infinitely small yet photo-realistic moons. The 44.25 mm model features a blue, black, brown or grey sun-brushed dial, with rhodium-plated indexes. At 6 o’clock is the accurate Moonphase indication, which features a metallic crystal disc microstructured to obtain a high resolution image of the moon. The stainless steel case is complemented by a blue ceramic bezel ring with Liquidmetal tachymeter scale and presented on a blue leather strap with a polished-brushed foldover clasp.




Hollywood actor George Clooney stars in the new film created to introduce the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Collection. The Oscar-winning actor and director George Clooney has been appointed as the new brand ambassador for Swiss watch brand in 2007.

LuxExpose OmegaSpeedmasterClooney 1 George Clooney for Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Collection
My uncle gave me an Omega in 1969. It was my first watch. That was the year that the Apollo 11 crew took Omega with them when they walked on the moon. I couldn’t have been prouder. This company has always been a symbol of class and prestige and I’m honored to be a part of the Omega family – I feel like I always was. – George Clooney

Not only measuring every moment on Earth, the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph collection follows the phases of the moon, as the celebration of the Speedmaster’s legacy as the first watch ever to be worn on the lunar surface. Powering the timepiece is the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9904, which has been officially certified by META.

George Clooney for Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph CollectionThe new Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph features two infinitely small yet photo-realistic moons. The 44.25 mm model features a blue, black, brown or grey sun-brushed dial, with rhodium-plated indexes. At 6 o’clock is the accurate Moonphase indication, which features a metallic crystal disc microstructured to obtain a high resolution image of the moon. The stainless steel case is complemented by a blue ceramic bezel ring with Liquidmetal tachymeter scale and presented on a blue leather strap with a polished-brushed foldover clasp.

George Clooney for Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph CollectionThe more sophisticated model features an opaline silvery dial, with diamond polished 18K yellow gold indexes and hands. At 6 o’clock is the accurate Moonphase indication, which features an 18K yellow gold hand-engraved moon disc, filled with enamel and sprinkled with silver powder to represent the stars. Cased in 18K yellow gold and circled with a black ceramic bezel ring with Ceragold™ tachymeter scale , this watch is presented on a black leather strap with a polished-brushed 18K yellow gold foldover clasp. There is also a limited edition Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph that boasts sand-blasted 950 platinum dial with diamond-polished blackened indexes, all cased in 950 platinum bezel.


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